Orley Fall 2014: NYFW Review

Well this NYFW I am unfortunately missing the bulk of my favorite shows due to a last minute work trip to Seattle. But that doesn't stop me from poring over show reports, Instagram images, and back stage photos to see what I've missed in person!

Yesterday the team at Orley showed their first full rtw collection in what is a brilliant leap from what started as a (beautiful) offering of knit ties. I've been a fan since they launched said ties, but what they've accomplished for Fall '14 is incredible.

One of my favorite looks included this jacket -- I loved the off-white color for Fall and the attention to detail with the leather trim on the collar and around the sleeves. 

Another standout was this cream knit turtleneck with a complex stitch pattern as seen from the front... but with a really clever surprise in the back (click the link, it's definitely worth a look).

But I think my favorite look was where they centered on their sweet-spot and then blew it up. Knit sweater x knit pants with a really great grid pattern. As Bruce Pask just wrote about the trend in luxe sweat pants, the Orley version should not be ignored. 

I am super excited to see this hit stores but more importantly to see what comes next for the team at Orley! Full collection images at Fucking Young...

Cashmere Blazer from Eidos: Things I Have

I've been waiting for a while for Eidos, the new label from uber-luxe Italian company Isaia. Helmed by a Michael Bastian alum, Creative Director Antonio Ciongoli has a sophisticated yet approachable point of view, and a price point that is a bit easier to swallow than it's brother brand.

So it was with a lot of excitement that I stopped into Carson Street Clothiers last week and fixed my attention on the rack of gorgeous cashmere blend blazers. 

I tried on this deep green one first and fell in love. Beyond the obvious softness of the fabric, the soft shoulder silhouette and front pockets help keep it a little more casual. 

After a few nips from the tailor I was ready to throw it on for a California wedding and felt like a pro. Highly recommend you stop by Carson Street to see the goods in person (and they just launched MTM suiting), or peruse their website. 

Todd Snyder Spring 2014: NYFW Review

It's no secret I am a big fan of Todd Snyder (and not just because I was able to wear one of his tuxedos to the CFDA awards this year). Since launching, he has stayed on a consistent path with each collection, diverging slightly for a number of well-placed collabs -- Champion, Gap (for GQ Menswear Designer), suiting by Southwick.

For Spring '14 he continued on the consistency track, with a solid showing of everything from casual tees to printed blazers, and awesomely tailored pants and shorts.

My first favorite look was this striped tee paired with navy trousers. Loved the simplicity of the pieces together + I can already tell those pants will be a great addition to my Spring wardrobe.

Second on standouts from the presentation was partially due to the man wearing the clothes. I was really taken with this model and the attitude he exuded -- definitely felt right for the brand. But that aside, I loved the light button down with the plaid pants. The blues and greens make this a great transition piece as it could easily move into Fall.

And my third favorite was this blue coat -- a nice update from a traditional navy trench. The pleated shorts are another Spring must-have (yes, pleats done right are back).

While getting into the actual Todd Snyder presentation was a harrowing experience (Jenna Lyons, Frank Muytjens, and a couple of Jonas Brothers were there), it was definitely worth it. You can see the full collection here.

Fall Styling: Three Looks from Ports 1961

I definitely have an affinity for Fall. The opportunity to buy sweaters, jackets, and all things wool is something I just can't resist. So it was without hesitation that I took Details magazine up on the offer to style a few Fall looks from the expansive closet of global brand Ports 1961. 

It was hard to actually settle on just three, but I loved what I was able to come up with, and hope you do too!

First up -- I saw this cashmere rollneck sweater in their lookbook and knew I had to include it in my pull. The heathered red mixed with the solid swoops stood out to me and it's a piece that you'll see from across the room.

I paired it with wool pants and amazing keltie loafers. These are the pieces I'd put together on a snowy day when staying warm (and looking good) is paramount.

Next, there was a windowpane suit that caught my eye. I am seemingly always on the hunt for a new suit, and this one fit like a dream. But before we dive in there, I threw on this fantastic coat.

Navy (my go-to color), light enough for a Fall day, and I loved the paneling on the back. It was a feature in a lot of the Ports 1961 pieces from this collection and I thought it was a great subtle touch.

Now, about that suit... have to love something off the rack that fits you this well. Great attention to detail and the pattern was classic yet compelling. Another pair of keltie loafers (these in blue on blue) rounded out the look.

The finale was an unstructured green jacket, wool pants, and pebbled leather boots. One of the reasons I had to try the jacket was how well it can go from casual to dressed up. Large front pockets, soft shoulders, and a rich color make this a perfect Fall choice.

The wool pants included more of the paneling seen in the navy jacket above, and went really well with the leather boots. I also grabbed this beautiful leather tote bag -- it's important to have something to throw your scarf, gloves, and other Fall necessities in.

Talk about a fun day... it was such a pleasure to get to experience Ports 1961 and have an advance look at some of my major wants for Fall. 

And finally, here's a quick behind the scenes video shot on set... enjoy!

Madras Short Suit from Black Fleece: Things I Want

Over the weekend I decided I couldn't wait any longer to see Black Fleece Spring '13 in store. So I went on over to the Bleecker street store + started trying it on... 

The banana leaf motif was especially fun, and definitely something you won't see elsewhere.

There was (unsurprisingly) a lot of madras and I loved it all... this light cotton cut-away jacket was a standout. The weight will be perfect for warmer weather and as with most things designed by Thom Browne it fit without much need for alteration.

Then I thought, why would I just want the madras jacket when I could get the shorts and have  a new Spring suit! The matching bermuda shorts are also lightweight, and with the knee-length I could get away wearing it to a dressier occasion. 

The shorts hadn't yet arrived in my size, so you're seeing it here on a model and not on me... yet! But stay tuned, I'm excited to grab this look for sunny days soon.

Black Fleece Fall 2013: NYFW Review

Frequent readers know how fanatical I've become about Black Fleece, the Thom Browne designed collection for Brooks Brothers. It is a fantastic integration of Browne's unique design aesthetic positioned for the BB customer. The line was featured prominently in my Week of Wearing Thom Browne -- so I was excited to see what would be on offer for Fall 2013. 

Maybe I'm becoming too accustomed to the Browne's style, and am less "shockable" because I found next season to be somewhat muted. Especially when considered with some of what is in store for Spring!

This black and white jacket and trousers was part of a large story Browne did in that palette, contrasting the use of each color to have it really pop.

Seems I can't get enough tartan in my life -- this double breasted jacket and shorts was my favorite look of all. I loved the rich colors for Fall and the v-neck sweater underneath complements it nicely.

Continuing the black and white, here in more refined suiting, can also produce dizzy spells. I actually liked the subtlety of it from afar, and how you get a different sense of the houndstooth up close. It reminded me of the black and blue gingham suit I ordered last year from Sid Mashburn.

I've acquired quite a few of the accessories Browne designs with the collection: here, here,  here. The pebbled leather pieces are especially great, and so this tote for Fall quickly became a must have. Pebbled brown leather + the Thom Browne red/white/blue stripe, a winning combination.

Overall I found the collection to be a strong continuation of the brand and perhaps focusing on converting even more Brooks Brothers loyalists. Austin Wong at Why You Mad blog has more photos.

Billy Reid Fall 2013: NYFW Review

Billy Reid's knack at delivering classic silhouettes with an infusion of Southern tradition was on full display again for Fall '13. Included were rugged leathers, layers in a range of browns and oranges, and more of the outerwear that Reid did so well in Fall '12.

A standout look for me was this gorgeous overcoat and the amazing red/rust colored pants. Must have those pants! The slim leg with a slightly larger ankle opening is perfect for the boots Reid puts out regularly... but the color has a subtle wear to it, toning it down but still catching your eye.

If you now me, you know I can't resist a shawl collar. So this was a no-brainer -- plus the toned pattern and sheen make this a perfect black tie jacket. Although even here, where it's paired more casually, it totally works for a less formal night out.

Another shawl collar -- this one all black, and styled with black pants (again with a slightly wider ankle opening) and a black knit. I appreciated the simplicity of these pieces all together, and how they conveyed such confidence... helped of course when worn by Clement Chabernaud.

I definitely steered more towards the tailored looks in Reid's collection -- but get over to GQ to see the full lineup and his breadth of Southern goodness.

Ian Velardi Fall 2013: NYFW Review

Braving the onset of Winter Storm Nemo, last night I made my way to Lincoln Center for the Fall 2013 collection by Ian Velardi. Recently named as the menswear winner for Ecco Domani's Fashion Foundation Award, and a nominee for GQ's Best New Menswear Designer of the Year, Velardi is establishing himself as a strong player in the men's space.

For Fall he continued this streak with a mix of American influenced tailored comfort -- beautiful jackets shown with sweatpants, "USA" emblazoned sweatshirts and hats, and outerwear equally suitable for Manhattan or Maine.

What I loved most about this collection was Velardi's continuation of belted jackets -- in Fall '12 it was the quilted robe, and now it is the smoking jacket. Here is my favorite look, the cord smoking jacket (with satin lapel, naturally) worn with a chambray military shirt, flannel pants and an ivory beanie. Talk about confident sophistication.

The smoking jacket was also done in a tartan plaid, with the navy lapel. I'm always a sucker for a good tartan, so it would be a tough call on which of these I'd take home (is there room for both?). Worn with grey panel sweatpants, a cashmere scarf (luxury + comfort), and a USA ballcap.

Part of the lineup -- gives you a sense of the very cool mixing of dressing up, dressing down, and throwing it all together that Velardi put forth.

I am always fascinated by casting and how models are used for different designers. Velardi had Brazilian model Rodrigo Calazans in a rugged look... 

More to come from Ian Velardi and definitely one to watch. 

Wearing Thom Browne: Day 5

For my final day of wearing Thom Browne this week, I went with another blazer from Black Fleece. Navy with white seersucker stripes, it is a little "Spring" for today's 30 degree weather... so I layered it with a Todd Snyder x Gap sweatshirt and Sid Mashburn flannel.

As with the rest of my Black Fleece pieces it has a cropped sleeve, and is tailored on the sides to fit me perfectly.

Those mother of pearl buttons... a Thom Browne trademark! I also love the high placement of the top button (same as with yesterday's tartan blazer).
 

Wearing Thom Browne: Day 2

For Day 2 of a week of wearing Thom Browne I went to a "vintage" piece... this beautiful jacket gifted to me by a friend. With blues, blacks, and grays it creates a striking yet subtle pattern. As an expected TB touch, I love the grosgrain tipped collar, sleeves, and pocket.

By far one of the warmest pieces I own (thanks to an infusion of cashmere), I figured it'd be perfect for today's mixed temps.

Paired it with Docker's Alpha Khakis and a navy knit tie from The Knottery. 

Tomorrow's going in a little different direction, excited to show you what Browne creation I'll be sportin' then!

Number:Lab + Men's Threads Rockin' Holiday Promotion

“For the athletic side of the discerning man” – this is the mantra for menswear brand Number:Lab. With a focus on blending technical fabrics and meticulous construction, each season brings innovation in outerwear and activewear. 

I have been a fan season after season, calling out their signature pieces as some of my favorites, and picking up a quilted jacket (that converts to a vest) and some of the most comfortable gym shorts I own.    

But I’m not the only one who is a fan – this year Number:Lab was selected to participate in the CFDA {FASHION INCUBATOR} a testament not only to their prior efforts but also to the potential of what they bring to the men’s marketplace.

So I am excited to announce this week that Men’s Threads has partnered with Number:Lab to offer our readers a great promotion. From Wednesday (12/12) through Friday (12/14) spend $100 on Number:Lab merchandise and receive $25 off your order, or spend $300 and receive $100 off your order! 

Spend $100, get a $25 credit (use code: MT100)

Spend $300, get a $100 credit (use code: MT300)

This awesome deal is available through their website, or if you are in New York, you can get the same discount at the CFDA {Fashion Incubator} sample sale (12/13-12/14, 209 W 38th St. #308). Just mention the Men’s Threads code.

The blocked transformer jacket unzips to become a vest

This Fall '12 jacket is reversible + a favorite of mine

Also reversible, this jersey + thermal hoodie is perfect for the weekend or the gym

Now go get shopping for some amazing sportswear, either for you or to gift some this holiday season. And stay tuned for more great things to come from Number:Lab!

Burgundy Blazer from Carven: Things I Have

Ever since Guillaume Henry took over the design reins at Carven I've become a big fan. The Fall line continued to impress and while at Barney's last month I tried on the "Paul" jacket and pants in burgundy... a color that seems to be everywhere and was called out by GQ as a seasonal trend.

Well I went back to Barney's over the weekend + picked up the blazer. It's cotton gabardine and so perfect for transitional Fall temps. It also has the cropped silhouette that I've found in much of the Carven pieces and which I tend to gravitate towards

I already wore it for the first time, paired with a burgundy knit tie and striped oxford. Ready for Fall!

Check out the rest of the Fall collection + you can head to Barney's like I did to pick up one for yourself!

Todd Snyder Spring 2013: NYFW Review

Over the weekend I got into a vigorous debate about Todd Snyder's Spring collection. Some felt it was too safe and similar to his past work. My opinion is that Snyder continues to deliver high quality, well tailored pieces in a tight collection that are consistent to his core aesthetic, with seasonal variances. 

For Spring he did just this, keeping within the arena for which his popularity is growing, but through an inspired lens... in this case the film The English Patient.

Since the v-neck tee I bought from his Spring '12 collection is the softest and most comfortable I've ever owned, I definitely gravitated to this lightweight long-sleeved sweater with a chest pocket. Paired with white shorts with low slung pockets, it is casual but with an obvious luxury and refinement.

Another area that Snyder has excelled is outerwear. In fact I just tried on a fantastic quilted reversible cropped jacket for Fall that I may just have to buy... with that in mind, this cropped navy jacket for Spring caught my eye. With the khaki/khaki shirt and tie combo (which I already own from him), this jacket would get a lot of wear.

I think my favorite piece from the collection was this double breasted jacket. Snyder's suiting has been a staple of the line (as seen through his recent pop-up at Odin) and I am confident this will also fit perfectly. The color keeps it versatile, and worn here with shorts and boots shows you can definitely dress it up or down.

Needless to say, I remain a fan of Todd Snyder and will be shopping Spring when it hits stores. Get over to GQ for a full set of photos.

Blazer + Pants from Carven: Things I Want

Last weekend as I was checking out the new Fall goods I came across a fantastic blazer/pant combo from Carven. You may remember how excited I was to get a blazer from their Spring collection when I was last in Paris... the line continues to have a great subtle French influence and a nice slim and cropped fit.

The burgundy color of these pieces is the first thing that caught my eye, and I could definitely see myself mixing and matching this color as the season changes. When I tried it on the jacket fit well -- perhaps a little snug for some, but I liked the shorter length and high arm holes. The pants also worked well, and were just short enough that when paired with my Tretorns it had a nice pulled together but casual vibe.

 

I tried it all on at Barney's but you can find out more (and see other Carven for Fall) over at Mr. Porter. 

Shirt from COS: Things I Want

While in Bilbao last week I stopped into COS, the up-market brand from H&M. Ever since my friend Tanner told me about them, I've been a fan. I find it to have a Scandinavian aesthetic (read simple yet quirky) and offers something I can't find Stateside. Whenever I'm in a European city that has a COS, I check it out.

So last week I tried on this killer chambray shirt. Well they call it a "shirt" but I'd go more for shacket -- it has the thickness of a regular shirt but there are side pockets and an elastic waist, making it more like an over-shirt or jacket.

I can totally see wearing this partially buttoned over a t-shirt or gingham shirt... 

Now the only reason I didn't buy this was because they didn't have my size + COS does not ship outside of countries it has stores... so it's on my #want list for now!

Striped Seersucker Jacket from Black Fleece: Things I Have

I already wrote this week about my new Black Fleece duffel, which I can't wait to start using this summer. Well while I was buying it, a jacket caught my eye, that I had to try on...  blue and white stripe, in a really subtle cotton seersucker. The puckering is really just on the white stripe, not the whole piece, which I like.

Mother of pearl buttons, great lining... all of the details you expect from Mr. Browne + Brooks Brothers. 

I tried it on, it fit perfectly, and I knew I was buying it... fantastic tailoring, it has a strong shoulder seam, and high armholes, plus the back is pinned just enough that it doesn't billow. Perfect. 

Here it is from the Black Fleece site:

Of course I wore it the very next day... paired with a navy, white, and red striped tie. I liked the result!

Check out more info on this jacket, and see the rest of the Spring collection!

Sports Coat from L.B.M. 1911: Things I Want

While in Chicago this week I decided to scout out the local menswear scene... enter Haberdash. They have multiple locations around the city, and I stopped in at State Street. And one of the first things I noticed was a row of cool cotton sports coats.

The sales director told me they were L.B.M. 1911, a line I was previously unaware of (although now upon doing a quick search, I see that Josh Peskowitz was talking about these guys over a year ago).

From Italy, these coats all start out white and are hand-dyed and pre-washed. As a result the color is a bit softened, they're extremely comfortable, and really simple to care for. In my continued quest to introduce other colors than navy into my closet, I tried on the emerald.

The fit was perfect and it was easy to see how I could throw this on for any occasion and get a great look. Here's the lookbook photo Haberdash has...

Since I just picked up that amazing Carven blazer last week in Paris, I didn't walk out with this one, but I wanted to! Read more about them on the Haberdash site.

Padded Jacket from NUMBER:Lab: Things I Have

Recently I wrote about my three favorite pieces from Capsule, of which one was an incredible jacket from NUMBER:Lab. So it was only natural that when I heard about their sample sale last weekend, I knew I had to stop by.

Actually I've been passing their new store on 10th Avenue every day on my way to work, and needed to go check out the space... so this was the perfect opportunity!

The brand does a great job of creating items you can wear every day, but that have an outdoor technical side. Their site very accurately calls it "tech + tailored".

At the sale I tried on a padded vest, which I loved. When the salesperson told me it came with sleeves (aka was a jacket with removable sleeves), I was sold. I loved the crop fit, the super warm double lining, and the double collar.

Wore the jacket out Saturday night, to great reviews, and again on Sunday... it's quickly becoming a staple in my closet and I'm so happy I grabbed it!

It's not too late to pick one up on the NUMBER:Lab site...