The Tents at Project: My Favorite Brands to Watch

Wishing I was in Vegas this week for the Project trade show, and specifically to check out The Tents. Billed as a new show that offers a highly curated selection of brands, The Tents also happen to include some of my favorite men's brands... so I thought I'd share a few that I wish I was there to see!

Michael Bastian: his ability to weave together a story in one collection is inspiring, moving from beautiful suiting (below) to leather pants and fur lined coats.

Billy Reid: continues to bring the Southern gentleman to points North and West, and does so with increasing success. A favorite look from his recent show, I loved the color and texture of these pants for Fall.

Ian Velardi: Bringing together luxury + comfort with his smoking jackets, sweatpants, and tailored pieces. 

Todd Snyder: I left his presentation totally blown away -- he definitely took the collection to a darker place, but it remained refined and beautifully executed. This coat with shearling collar was by far my favorite piece from Fall. 

Public School: I've been a fan of these guys since they launched, and the accolades keep coming. There is always a dark palette and a street wear eye that they stay true and consistent to. 

Grayers: A recent discovery, I'm so intrigued by another Southern based brand, Grayers. Bringing a casual look with a great attention to detail, at an accessible price these guys have gone after an interesting part of the men's market. Cannot wait to see what they deliver for Fall '13!

Stay tuned for how my favorite brands fare this week in Vegas, and check out the Project site for more information on the show. 

Black Fleece Fall 2013: NYFW Review

Frequent readers know how fanatical I've become about Black Fleece, the Thom Browne designed collection for Brooks Brothers. It is a fantastic integration of Browne's unique design aesthetic positioned for the BB customer. The line was featured prominently in my Week of Wearing Thom Browne -- so I was excited to see what would be on offer for Fall 2013. 

Maybe I'm becoming too accustomed to the Browne's style, and am less "shockable" because I found next season to be somewhat muted. Especially when considered with some of what is in store for Spring!

This black and white jacket and trousers was part of a large story Browne did in that palette, contrasting the use of each color to have it really pop.

Seems I can't get enough tartan in my life -- this double breasted jacket and shorts was my favorite look of all. I loved the rich colors for Fall and the v-neck sweater underneath complements it nicely.

Continuing the black and white, here in more refined suiting, can also produce dizzy spells. I actually liked the subtlety of it from afar, and how you get a different sense of the houndstooth up close. It reminded me of the black and blue gingham suit I ordered last year from Sid Mashburn.

I've acquired quite a few of the accessories Browne designs with the collection: here, here,  here. The pebbled leather pieces are especially great, and so this tote for Fall quickly became a must have. Pebbled brown leather + the Thom Browne red/white/blue stripe, a winning combination.

Overall I found the collection to be a strong continuation of the brand and perhaps focusing on converting even more Brooks Brothers loyalists. Austin Wong at Why You Mad blog has more photos.

Michael Bastian Fall 2013: NYFW Review

Before showing his Fall 2013 collection, Michael Bastian hinted it would be about the darker side of New England. And there was definitely an edge to his looks on Tuesday night -- from eyeliner on the models, to a more somber palette, and some styling techniques (read: skinny suspenders + buttoned up polos) that gave me a little British goth influence. 

Bastian delivered on the amazing suiting he has become known for -- here with this double-breasted version worn by model Tom Bull (who has been everywhere this season). The tartan duffel is nice complement, and would be a spirited bag for Fall.

In a more casual suited look, this styling is pure Bastian -- the pants a little low-slung, the iconic belt buckle, and layered vest.

Here was another sweet spot -- gorgeous knits infused with an eye-catching pattern. Paired with these shockingly red pants and light overcoat complete a rainy day look, and one that I could definitely see myself in.

An example of the 'darker' side of this collection, this quilted black jacket (with extensive fur collar, naturally) and black leather pants. While Bastian's version of the pant is a little less fitted than what I saw at Todd Snyder, it's an interested trend for Fall. I also like the stitched knees (something Bastian also used on the Gant side for Spring).

Overall a strong continuation of the Michael Bastian brand, seen through such a clear lens that you see it and just know it's him. The edgier side is a nice translation for Fall and is in line with what a number of men's designers are channeling... go here for all photos of the collection.

Ovadia & Sons Fall 2013: Things I Love

The brothers of Ovadia & Sons continue to deliver the necessary pieces for a gentleman's wardrobe -- high quality, well crafted, classic pieces. But they deliver these collections season after season in a way that makes men of all ages want to look sharp and thoughtful about what they're wearing. 

Fall 2013 is no exception -- suiting, jackets, outerwear, knits -- all designed and styled to be completely approachable and easy to mix with anything else you've already got. There was also some whimsy -- jacket and pants with two-tone panelling gave an optical treat, and zig-zag striped ski sweaters took me back to the 1970's.

A key look for me was this navy blazer layered with red and black sweater and gray trousers. Simple yet neat. The double breasted military style coat in the background could easily be thrown over it all as it gets colder.

From the looks of it three-piece suiting is on a rise, and this version with the high-buttoned vest seems a good investment.

Finally, I couldn't resist the windowpane suit (so good), the tartan shawl, or the beret... the francophile in me just leapt at this whole look. 

You can see the rest of the collection here... all shot by rising star photographer Justin Chung. and given the Ovadia brothers are now also designing York Street for J. Press, expect to see more of them and their work.

Just Two Looks: Z Zegna Fall 2013

While I don't tend to get overly excited by pieces from Zegna or it's more modern leaning offshoot Z Zegna, I have always respected the quality + craftmanship they deliver. 

However for Fall 2013 Z Zegna designer Paul Surridge created some fascinating looks based on both aesthetic and technical modernity.

This quilted suit was a standout, the subtle texture created by the stitching giving it an eye-catching pop from afar and something you just want to reach out and touch when up close.

 

This standout print was shown in both a black/gray tone as well as with this pop of orange (the color being shown strongly here, as it was seen often in last week London Collection shows).

Two favorites from Milan, and you can see the rest of Surridge's work here at Style.com. Stay tuned while I share some of the best from this week's Paris shows!

Loden Dager Fall 2012: NYFW Review

For Spring 2012 the Loden Dager palette definitely popped... and it seems designer Paul Marlow is continuing that into Fall. Get ready for color!

Their Fall show, held at Good Units, opened with a bright red suit (below) that set the tone for the rest of the collection. As a fan of the tailoring in their suiting, I am looking forward to seeing this look up close.

There was also some great knitwear -- this piece worn by Clement Chabernaud had some fantastic back detailing that this photo doesn't do justice. The knits had a streak of whimsy, but also a thoughtful intricacy. When I met with Marlow a few weeks ago he alluded to some interesting knits for Fall... and he delivered.

This suit really stood out -- a gold thread in the fabric gave it some shine, and I loved the three button jacket.

Overall a consistent collection, shown in a packed house. I'm looking forward to getting my hands on some Loden come Fall! Check out the rest of the looks at GQ.

Super Chic Super Mart from Marlon Gobel for Spring '12: NYFW Review

I've been following Marlon Gobel's work since he first launched his eponymous collection. I always enjoy the consistent themes each season, the the complete attention to detail, and the introduction of color and boldness to the men's shows.

For Spring '12 Gobel decided to explore the theme of Super Mart, that place where the beauty is in the symmetry and repetition of color in product merchandising.

With a backdrop of Lay's products (how fitting), we saw a tightly done collection that brought out fruit prints (can only Stella McCartney play with produce?) that caught your eye and held it.

Suiting done with the usual Gobel attention to detail and fit. The models were outfitted with brightly soled derbys from heritage brand Walk Over (seen here in white).

Really loved this sheer shirt (Gobel definitely dabbled in mesh this season, as did Robert Geller and Simon Spurr), and digging the hexagonal stitching, a subtle nod to his branding.

Closing the show, in what has to be my favorite piece... a madras tuxedo. I am so into this, cannot wait for the Spring delivery! Oh and yes, the model is wearing ostrich loafers with a black grosgrain bow.

Since I wasn't in the pit (and had my mouth open throughout this high energy show), these pics are from GQ. Go there for the rest of the show and then check out Gobel's own site for more great content for Spring.