Madras Short Suit from Black Fleece: Things I Want

Over the weekend I decided I couldn't wait any longer to see Black Fleece Spring '13 in store. So I went on over to the Bleecker street store + started trying it on... 

The banana leaf motif was especially fun, and definitely something you won't see elsewhere.

There was (unsurprisingly) a lot of madras and I loved it all... this light cotton cut-away jacket was a standout. The weight will be perfect for warmer weather and as with most things designed by Thom Browne it fit without much need for alteration.

Then I thought, why would I just want the madras jacket when I could get the shorts and have  a new Spring suit! The matching bermuda shorts are also lightweight, and with the knee-length I could get away wearing it to a dressier occasion. 

The shorts hadn't yet arrived in my size, so you're seeing it here on a model and not on me... yet! But stay tuned, I'm excited to grab this look for sunny days soon.

BWGH Sweatshirt: Things I Want

I've been tracking new label Brooklyn We Go Hard (BWGH) since last year -- having spotted it in a men's shop in Biarritz. Started by two Parisians, they're known for their "Brooklyn Parle Francais" sweatshirts, as well as an assortment of embellished shirts, and relaxed pants.

For Spring they've released some new styles, and one that stood out to me -- "Brooklyn From Paris" with the Brooklyn bridge and bowling pins. Tres cool. Also love the blue elbow patches and stretched out collar.

Available from the Hypebeast shop, and see what other deliveries they have in stock...

The Tents at Project: My Favorite Brands to Watch

Wishing I was in Vegas this week for the Project trade show, and specifically to check out The Tents. Billed as a new show that offers a highly curated selection of brands, The Tents also happen to include some of my favorite men's brands... so I thought I'd share a few that I wish I was there to see!

Michael Bastian: his ability to weave together a story in one collection is inspiring, moving from beautiful suiting (below) to leather pants and fur lined coats.

Billy Reid: continues to bring the Southern gentleman to points North and West, and does so with increasing success. A favorite look from his recent show, I loved the color and texture of these pants for Fall.

Ian Velardi: Bringing together luxury + comfort with his smoking jackets, sweatpants, and tailored pieces. 

Todd Snyder: I left his presentation totally blown away -- he definitely took the collection to a darker place, but it remained refined and beautifully executed. This coat with shearling collar was by far my favorite piece from Fall. 

Public School: I've been a fan of these guys since they launched, and the accolades keep coming. There is always a dark palette and a street wear eye that they stay true and consistent to. 

Grayers: A recent discovery, I'm so intrigued by another Southern based brand, Grayers. Bringing a casual look with a great attention to detail, at an accessible price these guys have gone after an interesting part of the men's market. Cannot wait to see what they deliver for Fall '13!

Stay tuned for how my favorite brands fare this week in Vegas, and check out the Project site for more information on the show. 

Birds for Spring: Things I Love

Walking to work this morning, in 18 degree weather, I decided it was time for some warmer weather. Or a glimpse of Spring. 

These bird-themed accessories that I'd seen recently came to mind. Herschel has this fantastic backpack that I'd be more likely to tote around the city than on an Audubon hike, but it definitely spoke to me of Spring.

Another bird related piece is this navy five baseball cap from Ami. Perfect for a picnic in the park, a run along the water, or a day at the beach.

I definitely want to rock these two together, and find some bird shorts to go with them! Shorts weather can't come soon enough...

Black Fleece Fall 2013: NYFW Review

Frequent readers know how fanatical I've become about Black Fleece, the Thom Browne designed collection for Brooks Brothers. It is a fantastic integration of Browne's unique design aesthetic positioned for the BB customer. The line was featured prominently in my Week of Wearing Thom Browne -- so I was excited to see what would be on offer for Fall 2013. 

Maybe I'm becoming too accustomed to the Browne's style, and am less "shockable" because I found next season to be somewhat muted. Especially when considered with some of what is in store for Spring!

This black and white jacket and trousers was part of a large story Browne did in that palette, contrasting the use of each color to have it really pop.

Seems I can't get enough tartan in my life -- this double breasted jacket and shorts was my favorite look of all. I loved the rich colors for Fall and the v-neck sweater underneath complements it nicely.

Continuing the black and white, here in more refined suiting, can also produce dizzy spells. I actually liked the subtlety of it from afar, and how you get a different sense of the houndstooth up close. It reminded me of the black and blue gingham suit I ordered last year from Sid Mashburn.

I've acquired quite a few of the accessories Browne designs with the collection: here, here,  here. The pebbled leather pieces are especially great, and so this tote for Fall quickly became a must have. Pebbled brown leather + the Thom Browne red/white/blue stripe, a winning combination.

Overall I found the collection to be a strong continuation of the brand and perhaps focusing on converting even more Brooks Brothers loyalists. Austin Wong at Why You Mad blog has more photos.

Michael Bastian Fall 2013: NYFW Review

Before showing his Fall 2013 collection, Michael Bastian hinted it would be about the darker side of New England. And there was definitely an edge to his looks on Tuesday night -- from eyeliner on the models, to a more somber palette, and some styling techniques (read: skinny suspenders + buttoned up polos) that gave me a little British goth influence. 

Bastian delivered on the amazing suiting he has become known for -- here with this double-breasted version worn by model Tom Bull (who has been everywhere this season). The tartan duffel is nice complement, and would be a spirited bag for Fall.

In a more casual suited look, this styling is pure Bastian -- the pants a little low-slung, the iconic belt buckle, and layered vest.

Here was another sweet spot -- gorgeous knits infused with an eye-catching pattern. Paired with these shockingly red pants and light overcoat complete a rainy day look, and one that I could definitely see myself in.

An example of the 'darker' side of this collection, this quilted black jacket (with extensive fur collar, naturally) and black leather pants. While Bastian's version of the pant is a little less fitted than what I saw at Todd Snyder, it's an interested trend for Fall. I also like the stitched knees (something Bastian also used on the Gant side for Spring).

Overall a strong continuation of the Michael Bastian brand, seen through such a clear lens that you see it and just know it's him. The edgier side is a nice translation for Fall and is in line with what a number of men's designers are channeling... go here for all photos of the collection.

J. Crew Fall 2013: Just One Look

Yesterday Frank Muytjens showed J. Crew's Fall '13 for men, with an update on their classics. There were some colorful knits, solid suiting, and an awesome shiny waxed coat. 

But if I had to pick one look that was my favorite, it was this denim x denim rust colored jacket and jean combo. Not the first time they've shown something like this, but I loved the color, accented with the navy coat and scarf. I think I'd wear it with a colorful tie, for some pop.

Hypebeast has all of the looks here -- it was hard to choose just one favorite, so check them out.

Tim Coppens Fall 2013: NYFW Review

For Fall 2013, Tim Coppens was inspired by periods of his adolescence and particularly around skateboarding and graffiti. It meant showing a paint splatter graffiti print + voluminous sleeves like "the padding and volume of a youth's skateboarding gear". 

But all of that was rooted in silhouettes and design themes Coppens has slowly laid out each season... so back were the leather shoulders, the folded over collars, strong and robust hardware, and seams that create a paneled geometry. 

To the point of evolving from some already determined themes -- the zippers and rounded copper buttons on this shirt are being revisited from seasons past, creating a look one starts to identify strongly with the label. And these quilted pants caught my eye and were instantly added to my 'want' list. Seen a lot of quilting this season, but these pants (with the elastic cuffs) are too good.

This wool and leather jacket definitely stood out -- again a take on a piece Coppens delivered for Fall '12, but pushed out into the skater inspiration for this collection. I'm always taken with how he mixes materials, and uses seams and stitching to create texture and contrast.

My third favorite look was this navy cashmere and leather snap varsity jacket. Again, great use of materials and the leather shoulders are a Coppens trait seen season after season.

What I liked the most was the continuation he took from Spring '13 -- with a crossover on the color palette, where I felt I could definitely wear this sweatshirt I recently tried with the quilted pants for Fall. A more refined collection + excited to see where he goes next! All of the looks here... 

Ovadia & Sons Fall 2013: Things I Love

The brothers of Ovadia & Sons continue to deliver the necessary pieces for a gentleman's wardrobe -- high quality, well crafted, classic pieces. But they deliver these collections season after season in a way that makes men of all ages want to look sharp and thoughtful about what they're wearing. 

Fall 2013 is no exception -- suiting, jackets, outerwear, knits -- all designed and styled to be completely approachable and easy to mix with anything else you've already got. There was also some whimsy -- jacket and pants with two-tone panelling gave an optical treat, and zig-zag striped ski sweaters took me back to the 1970's.

A key look for me was this navy blazer layered with red and black sweater and gray trousers. Simple yet neat. The double breasted military style coat in the background could easily be thrown over it all as it gets colder.

From the looks of it three-piece suiting is on a rise, and this version with the high-buttoned vest seems a good investment.

Finally, I couldn't resist the windowpane suit (so good), the tartan shawl, or the beret... the francophile in me just leapt at this whole look. 

You can see the rest of the collection here... all shot by rising star photographer Justin Chung. and given the Ovadia brothers are now also designing York Street for J. Press, expect to see more of them and their work.

Sweatshirt from Tim Coppens: Things I Want

As most of you know, I've become slightly obsessed with the designs of Tim Coppens since he launched his label a few seasons ago. His outerwear for Fall '12 was incredible with a use of stitching, mixed materials, and the highest quality hardware I've seen.

When he showed his Spring '13 collection I was equally wowed and had a few standout pieces -- bomber jackets, a continued infusion of technical fabrics, and stitched leather.

So yesterday when I made my bi-weekly trip to Barney's, I was thrilled to see some pieces from this Spring collection in the store. I picked out this navy and black sweatshirt with leather arm panel.... it was (unsurprisingly) incredible. 

Fairly lightweight despite the layering of materials, it fit me perfectly, and was extremely comfortable. The leather pocket on the sleeve, with Coppens now signature gold hardware, was a mix of fashion and function that made the piece stand out.

Now when Coppens showed it in his Spring presentation it was paired with quilted leather shorts, that I was salivating over (and still am). 

Barney's didn't get those in yet, but I will put both pieces on my wishlist... and here's to hoping! See all of Tim Coppen's Spring collection here.

Billy Reid Fall 2013: NYFW Review

Billy Reid's knack at delivering classic silhouettes with an infusion of Southern tradition was on full display again for Fall '13. Included were rugged leathers, layers in a range of browns and oranges, and more of the outerwear that Reid did so well in Fall '12.

A standout look for me was this gorgeous overcoat and the amazing red/rust colored pants. Must have those pants! The slim leg with a slightly larger ankle opening is perfect for the boots Reid puts out regularly... but the color has a subtle wear to it, toning it down but still catching your eye.

If you now me, you know I can't resist a shawl collar. So this was a no-brainer -- plus the toned pattern and sheen make this a perfect black tie jacket. Although even here, where it's paired more casually, it totally works for a less formal night out.

Another shawl collar -- this one all black, and styled with black pants (again with a slightly wider ankle opening) and a black knit. I appreciated the simplicity of these pieces all together, and how they conveyed such confidence... helped of course when worn by Clement Chabernaud.

I definitely steered more towards the tailored looks in Reid's collection -- but get over to GQ to see the full lineup and his breadth of Southern goodness.

Ian Velardi Fall 2013: NYFW Review

Braving the onset of Winter Storm Nemo, last night I made my way to Lincoln Center for the Fall 2013 collection by Ian Velardi. Recently named as the menswear winner for Ecco Domani's Fashion Foundation Award, and a nominee for GQ's Best New Menswear Designer of the Year, Velardi is establishing himself as a strong player in the men's space.

For Fall he continued this streak with a mix of American influenced tailored comfort -- beautiful jackets shown with sweatpants, "USA" emblazoned sweatshirts and hats, and outerwear equally suitable for Manhattan or Maine.

What I loved most about this collection was Velardi's continuation of belted jackets -- in Fall '12 it was the quilted robe, and now it is the smoking jacket. Here is my favorite look, the cord smoking jacket (with satin lapel, naturally) worn with a chambray military shirt, flannel pants and an ivory beanie. Talk about confident sophistication.

The smoking jacket was also done in a tartan plaid, with the navy lapel. I'm always a sucker for a good tartan, so it would be a tough call on which of these I'd take home (is there room for both?). Worn with grey panel sweatpants, a cashmere scarf (luxury + comfort), and a USA ballcap.

Part of the lineup -- gives you a sense of the very cool mixing of dressing up, dressing down, and throwing it all together that Velardi put forth.

I am always fascinated by casting and how models are used for different designers. Velardi had Brazilian model Rodrigo Calazans in a rugged look... 

More to come from Ian Velardi and definitely one to watch. 

NYFW Review: Todd Snyder Fall 2013

Since launching his eponymous line, I've been a huge fan of Todd Snyder. Given how many people tell me they've bought his collection because they've heard me talk about it, I'm glad others are becoming TS converts!

Showing his Fall '13 collection yesterday at Lincoln Center, Snyder continued to impress -- venturing into a little more edge than seasons past while still delivering on the outerwear, suiting, and classic tailoring we've come to love.

I think my overall favorite piece, it literally made me pause, was this double breasted coat with (huge) shearling collar. Just amazing, and I love the shine and deep color combined with the contrast of the (warm) shearling.

Another standout was that Snyder moved past leather jackets and into... leather pants. Seen styled a few different ways (by the one and only Bruce Pask), this look stood out because of the windowpane cardigan and black shirt. Plus it was modeled by a favorite of mine, Clement Chabernaud.

This knit was fantastic, with the two pockets and neck closure. Given how often I have been layering this winter and going without a coat, I could definitely see wearing this next Fall just as it's shown here.

At first this striped sweater caught my eye, and then I noticed the other pieces -- these slouchy gray pants and the navy neckerchief. Rounds it out for a pulled together look that offers a lot of comfort. Was also really into the custom Vintage Shoe Company boots seen throughout...
 

I got a quick snap of part of the lineup -- where you can see the continuation of what Snyder rolled out for Fall... leather jacket, navy tuxedo (yes, please!), and a pony hair coat.
 

Todd Snyder continues down a very strong path -- bringing a well-rounded collection filled with tailored suiting, strong outerwear, and more casual pieces that give something for everyone. Can't wait to see this hit stores -- that double-breasted shearling coat will be mine! Check out the rest of the collection...

Raleigh Denim Fall 2013: Just One Look

Yesterday brought my first show for NYFW Fall 2013... I happily hit Raleigh Denim, a line that I've seen mature season after season. As they continue to produce great jeans (and have a rockin' store in Nolita to showcase them), the full collection has evolved.

Keeping a toehold in the Southern roots, there was definitely a nod to workwear. Raleigh also rolled out some great tailoring pieces that started to remind me of Billy Reid meets Steven Alan... but with their own locally produced point of view.

My favorite look was this pocketed vest -- a superb layering piece, and I loved the crop that kept it nice and clean. Styled with a long sleeved knit, denim, and a huge scarf to round out what you'll need for a perfect Fall day.

GQ has the rest of the men's looks, and they're definitely worth a peek. And if you're in NYC check out the Raleigh Denim store!

West Coast Inspired: Trip to San Diego

I am headed back to NYC after a quick West Coast trip to San Diego. While there I had the chance to stop by a very cool event called Common Goods, that included the Warby Parker bus, the folks from Aloha Sunday, and a number of local artisans.

Saw some great stuff + decided to put together a little San Diego inspired list of items... starting off with the Aloha Sunday Manitou swim trunks. Blue and white striped seersucker, these shorts are embroidered with anchors, and knit in California.

 

Another find at the market was the Apolis market bag -- done in collaboration with Aloha Sunday to represent San Diego. I love these bags, and always enjoy coming across new cities.

Like I mentioned, I swung by the Warby Parker Class Trip bus, and picked up a new pair of sunnies. The Winston fit my face perfectly and I liked the tortoise color blend. Can't wait to get these in the mail!

Finally, I was inspired by the Aloha Sunday signature tee. As Jeff Kieslich put it, it's the West Coast version of Saturdays Surf. Okay, I'll take it!

I had a great time in San Diego and these summer-like finds are getting me excited for warmer weather!

Wearing Thom Browne: Day 5

For my final day of wearing Thom Browne this week, I went with another blazer from Black Fleece. Navy with white seersucker stripes, it is a little "Spring" for today's 30 degree weather... so I layered it with a Todd Snyder x Gap sweatshirt and Sid Mashburn flannel.

As with the rest of my Black Fleece pieces it has a cropped sleeve, and is tailored on the sides to fit me perfectly.

Those mother of pearl buttons... a Thom Browne trademark! I also love the high placement of the top button (same as with yesterday's tartan blazer).