Wednesday, September 5, 2012

Tim Coppens Spring 2013: NYFW Review

Last season I saw a lot of great menswear for Fall 2012, but there was one show in particular that stood out... Tim Coppens. I said as much in my profile with Fashion We Like, and waited anxiously to see it hit stores.

For Fall I loved Coppen's outwear -- the stitching detail, the panels, the mixed material. So I was definitely excited to see what he delivered for Spring 2013, the third collection under his eponymous label.

Inspired by post-World War II pilots, the collection was titled "Gentlemen of the Sky". Coppens evoked color as a major story: "dust blue, rust, ivy green, sepia, sand, midnight, and ivory." It was on the whole a darker palette than his first Spring collection, but one that had more continuity to Fall and felt like a step forward as a result.

Components I was drawn to last season were here again: bomber jackets, a strong use of stitching to separate out elements of a piece, well crafted hardware, and the use of paneling to give a technical bent (no surprise given Coppen's background at RLX).

A standout was this bonded leather bomber jacket with the use of bright gold hardware.

Bags were done in collaboration with Masterpiece Japan and the use of quilted panels tied it back to the jackets also being shown. 

While a number of pieces stood out, the shorts below were a favorite... jet black, quilted, and with leather pockets. A subtle tone-on-tone juxtaposition that Coppens creates without seeming overdone.

I am really excited by the execution and the progression in Coppens work + can't wait to see it in stores... Get over here for more pics.

Image Source: Fucking Young