Orley Fall 2014: NYFW Review

Well this NYFW I am unfortunately missing the bulk of my favorite shows due to a last minute work trip to Seattle. But that doesn't stop me from poring over show reports, Instagram images, and back stage photos to see what I've missed in person!

Yesterday the team at Orley showed their first full rtw collection in what is a brilliant leap from what started as a (beautiful) offering of knit ties. I've been a fan since they launched said ties, but what they've accomplished for Fall '14 is incredible.

One of my favorite looks included this jacket -- I loved the off-white color for Fall and the attention to detail with the leather trim on the collar and around the sleeves. 

Another standout was this cream knit turtleneck with a complex stitch pattern as seen from the front... but with a really clever surprise in the back (click the link, it's definitely worth a look).

But I think my favorite look was where they centered on their sweet-spot and then blew it up. Knit sweater x knit pants with a really great grid pattern. As Bruce Pask just wrote about the trend in luxe sweat pants, the Orley version should not be ignored. 

I am super excited to see this hit stores but more importantly to see what comes next for the team at Orley! Full collection images at Fucking Young...

Shawl Collar Cardigan from Grayer's: Things I Want

It's getting cold and that always means time for sweaters... so I went to look at the offerings from Grayer's, one of my favorite new brands. And given my penchant for anything shawl collar, it was no surprise this caught my eye.

Their Blair Shawl Collar Cardigan, cotton/poly blend, not only sports a shawl collar, but is double breasted as well. An opportunity to wear it casually (as shown) or dress it up with a shirt and tie, and wear it as a sort of blazer. Give it a try!

More Grayer's available here... 

Michael Bastian Spring 2014: NYFW Review

Yesterday menswear maestro Michael Bastian showed his Spring '14 collection and he continues to show he knows his sweet spot and how to pivot from it.

The sweet spot -- whimsical knits, well tailored jackets, short shorts, and a continuation of Stubbs & Wooten slippers -- were there and updated to reflect Bastian's Parisian inspiration. 

The pivot -- a fantastic pineapple print, more athletic driven pieces, and a bag collaboration with Frank Clegg -- rounded out a very solid collection for Spring.

Three of my favorite looks:

Those damn pineapple pants! Bastian did the print in shorts and a hat, but the pants are totally me and I'll be coveting them come Spring.

The backgammon sweater. He's always in for a playful knit and this one has just enough subtlety that it takes you a minute to know what you're looking at.

Peak label printed tuxedo jacket. Bastian continues to design tuxedo jackets that don't take themselves too seriously, and I love it. What better way to stand out at a 'black tie' than in a white tie and eye-catching jacket!

Another strong showing and gives me something to look forward to next season... check out the whole collection over at GQ.

Fall Styling: Three Looks from Ports 1961

I definitely have an affinity for Fall. The opportunity to buy sweaters, jackets, and all things wool is something I just can't resist. So it was without hesitation that I took Details magazine up on the offer to style a few Fall looks from the expansive closet of global brand Ports 1961. 

It was hard to actually settle on just three, but I loved what I was able to come up with, and hope you do too!

First up -- I saw this cashmere rollneck sweater in their lookbook and knew I had to include it in my pull. The heathered red mixed with the solid swoops stood out to me and it's a piece that you'll see from across the room.

I paired it with wool pants and amazing keltie loafers. These are the pieces I'd put together on a snowy day when staying warm (and looking good) is paramount.

Next, there was a windowpane suit that caught my eye. I am seemingly always on the hunt for a new suit, and this one fit like a dream. But before we dive in there, I threw on this fantastic coat.

Navy (my go-to color), light enough for a Fall day, and I loved the paneling on the back. It was a feature in a lot of the Ports 1961 pieces from this collection and I thought it was a great subtle touch.

Now, about that suit... have to love something off the rack that fits you this well. Great attention to detail and the pattern was classic yet compelling. Another pair of keltie loafers (these in blue on blue) rounded out the look.

The finale was an unstructured green jacket, wool pants, and pebbled leather boots. One of the reasons I had to try the jacket was how well it can go from casual to dressed up. Large front pockets, soft shoulders, and a rich color make this a perfect Fall choice.

The wool pants included more of the paneling seen in the navy jacket above, and went really well with the leather boots. I also grabbed this beautiful leather tote bag -- it's important to have something to throw your scarf, gloves, and other Fall necessities in.

Talk about a fun day... it was such a pleasure to get to experience Ports 1961 and have an advance look at some of my major wants for Fall. 

And finally, here's a quick behind the scenes video shot on set... enjoy!

Short Sleeve Sweater by Jil Sander: Things I Want

On the same day that I bought these rockin' ties at Jeffrey's, I also tried on a short-sleeve sweater by Jil Sander. And I loved it.

It's super simple -- white with different colored bands around the color and arms. 100% wool but very light and comfortable. And I loved it. 

However, I left it for another day and so it's currently just on my Things I Want list. Check it out here at The Corner. 

Just One Look: Margaret Howell Fall 2013

I've always enjoyed the quiet understated nature of Margaret Howell's work. She speaks about a focus on clothes that can be "worn in the real world, where good design is about living with thoughtful style." And this is evident season after season.

For Fall 2013 there was continued English inspiration, and a muted palette. My favorite look included this chunky rollneck sweater -- well fitted throughout but with enough opening in the neck to give you some breathing room. Paired with gray pinstripe rousers, and a beret to finish it off.

You can see the full collection at WWD and check out Howell's site for more information.

Just One Look: Black Fleece Spring 2013

Last week Black Fleece showed its Spring '13 collection and yet again Thom Browne delivered the right mix of classic Brooks Brothers pieces (infused with his own silhouette) and a slew of punchy, colorful, and print laden looks.

For Spring '12 I purchased quite a bit (too much?) of Black Fleece, including a seersucker striped jacket, rollneck sweater, and canvas duffel and so was curious to see what next year's version would include.

Moving into Spring there was a tropical inspiration with bright madras + large printed palm fronds. For me the look that stood out was this mix of stripes + prints -- the jacket is a classic that has been re-worked, paired with patterned shorts and a diamond-print shirt. The tote bag was a nice addition, incorporating Browne's red/white/blue core. Hopefully they will roll the design out to a variety of bags, like they did this Spring, to provide some summer luggage options.

Essential Homme has all of the looks -- start brainstorming where your palm frond suit will make its debut!

Just One Look: Billy Reid Spring 2013

I couldn't make it to the Billy Reid Spring '13 show last Friday evening, but I did have intrepid reporters there, texting updates and pictures. It was nice to see the double-breasted suiting Reid showed, some of it in a wider silhouette.

The drapy nature of some of the pieces was on trend from what I've seen for Spring, nice and loose and light. 

But my favorite look was this one... this paneled knit sweater that is almost sheer on top, with a dark copper colored pant that has a fantastic shine and polish. Finished up with the jacket the whole thing reminds me more of Cary Grant than southern gentleman, but it's a nice move forward for Billy Reid.

Check out the rest of the show images at Fashionisto!

Cotton Sweater from Gant Rugger: Things I Have

I really think that Gant Rugger is not only staying consistent and on brand, but getting better and more refined each season. So it was no surprise that Christopher Bastin was just named Creative Director at Gant.... well deserved.

Recently I popped into the Rugger store on Bleecker street and picked up this great sweater from Fall '12. It's a really lightweight cotton and silk blend, a perfect transition piece between seasons.

And while it came in a few different colors, I of course went with the yellow. Couldn't help myself!

I wore the sweater for the first time last week over a white tee, but really like how they styled it for the lookbook... given how light the sweater is, it creates a transparency that lets you see the shirt + tie combo underneath.

You can see all of the colors (plus other great Fall finds) on the Gant site...

Fall 2012 from Sacai: Things I Love

I've been following Japanese label Sacai for a few seasons now -- although designer Chitose Abe launched her menswear line in 2009. But since discovering it, I have been consistently impressed with the attention to detail and the innovative knits, for which she is known.

WAD magazine recently did an exploration of a few growing Japanese brands (more on that soon!) and Sacai was one of them -- with a brief but insightful interview with Abe. Interesting to me was her response that her designs are indebted to her living in Tokyo but that she doesn't "necessarily draw a line between Tokyo and the rest of the world."

After reading the WAD piece I realized I hadn't yet seen images of the F/W '12 collection, and so quickly located them, and found it to be true to form.

Having noticed the use of white buttons and striped coats in S/S '12, it continued into Fall, with great result.

I really enjoyed these patterned pants that have a great sheen but are structured enough to wear as a normal trouser (and be paired here with some double monks).

Always a sucker for chunky knitwear, this piece stood out. Again the white buttons (love that contrast) and a play on a double-breasted design, with various knit patterns featured.

I highly suggest you keep an eye on Sacai, and that you check out the rest of the Fall images at Fucking Young.

Maison Kitsune Fall 2012: Things I Love

I'm still in the process of re-reviewing all of the European men's shows over the past weeks... and wanted to give a shout to personal fav Maison Kitsune. They consistently deliver well done collections, with a subtle French twist, and Fall 2012 was no exception.

Only this time they hooked me even more because their theme was a "chic man riding his bicycle in the city...". As an avid cyclist I've been loving the surge around brands like Rapha; Kitsune's use of particular fabrics and construction to enable sartorial cyclists gets my endorsement.

A few key favorites were the collared sweater in a bright red, the patterned scarf (BPMW just wrote this morning on the large scarf trend), great layering with a buttoned down club collar... and my must have, the "Parisien" cap.

As I've written here before, I'll now anxiously wait for the famous Kitsune video lookbook, mashing up models hurriedly dressing in the collection with songs produced by Kitsune musical label artists.

Go to GQ to check out the full collection + get your bicycle geared up for Fall!

Cable Crewneck from Ami: Things I Have

While in San Francisco this week I did a little post-holiday perusal at Barney's. Without intending to (isn't that always the case), I walked away with a few things... one of which was this great cableknit sweater from French label Ami.

I'd been at the Ami launch at Barney's in NYC and had been impressed with the collection. This sweater fits perfectly, the sleeves are a little long (which is perfect for winter wear), and it is super soft. I haven't taken it off since I bought it.

There are some good deals on Ami right now, go check it out on the Barney's site...

Cricket Sweater from Gant Rugger: Things I Have

In another (pleasant) occurrence of turning something I "Want" into something I "Have"... this is was the second item I picked up at the Gant Rugger store over the weekend.

I'd written about the Cricket Sweater last month, and then had seen it in the window at Urban Outfitters the past two weeks, every morning on my way to the gym. It proved too much temptation to withstand.

I'm so excited for some Fall weather, so I can put this on for work, or out on the weekends... it reminds me of varsity sweaters I used to wear in high school, but the weave is so much lighter (and updated).

Thanks to Joe and Greg at the Rugger store on Bleecker for all of their help!

Gant Rugger V-Neck: Things I Want

Over the weekend I did a little browsing on Bleecker (or as a friend put it, "market research"). And of course I stopped in to the Gant Rugger store. I wanted to see if they had the blue wool pants from Fall '11 that Barney's was out of. Well, the Bleecker store hadn't received Fall yet, only pre-Fall (but the new Prince Street Rugger store apparently has Fall).

And that's where we come to the great sweater I want... part of pre-Fall, I loved the red and blue stripes around the neck and the wrists. I also really liked the waffle knit that keeps the piece light and wearable.

Named "It's All Cricket" this is a great late Summer/early Fall add to my wardrobe.

Get to the Gant site and you can buy it now (and you can also see a nice shout-out for Michael Bastian's recent CFDA win!).

Fashion Sketches from Little Doodles: Things I Love

Fashion sketches, versus photographs, offer such a great insight into a look or a collection. While a photo (for the most part) is an identical reproduction of what was shown, a sketch is an interpretation; one that relays how someone actually saw the piece coming down the runway.

I'm a big fan of Richard Haines and the work he shows at What I Saw Today. The Unknown Hipster is also a favorite. Then this week, Style Salvage did a piece on the site Little Doodles, and I was in awe of the drawings from the recent Milan shows.

I was going through the images and laughed when I came across this sketch from the Woolrich Woolen Mills collection... this is the exact coat I blogged about earlier this week! Love it!

And here is one from Missoni... the artist selected one of my favorite looks from the show, and I love how the pants were just left as an outline, focusing on the sweater, jacket, and scarf.

You kind of need to go by Style Salvage and check out the rest, they're pretty amazing.

Sweater by Gant Rugger: Things I Have

What can I say... Gant is blowing up right now! What a resurgence into the U.S. market. Between their Collection line, Rugger, and the amazing pieces from their collaboration with Michael Bastian (the subject of a future "Things I Have" post), Gant has really leveraged the prep/trad trend, the clamoring for heritage, and the exact right price point to keep customer engaged.

Last month I was in New York and visited the Gant Rugger store on Bleecker. While small, it exuded a great sense of the brand. I initially was so enthralled with the lacrosse print green sweater from the MB collection but at the Rugger store I felt the cream and blue sweater shown below had more versatility. I was sold.

I think the fit is great. The warmth of the wool is a bit much for the L.A. weather but I am sure my winter travels will take me to a worthy climate.

As you can tell from this glowing report, I would suggest you check out the Gant Rugger website: http://www.gant.com/gantrugger/#/collection but for sure find a store near you that carries the line. It is on fire and you'll quickly see why!

Enjoy!

Things I Want: Ballantyne Spring 2010

I'm sorry but I can't say I've ever paid much attention to Ballantyne (apart from reading last year that Phillipe Starck and his wife were going to collab on a few pieces with the label).

But I am dying over their Spring 2010 lookbook. Can I please have all of it!

I've copied in a few of my favorites here (the blue sweater with the boat is amazing) and I am drooling over the take on the argyles in bright colors.

Found these at that Bible of men's fashion photos (Fashionisto, naturally)... go there for more from the Ballantyne lookbook: http://thefashionisto.com/blog/2010/03/07/ballantyne-spring-2010-jakob-wiechmann/.

Things I Want: Michael Bastian (Everything!)

I've been anticipating the Gant by Michael Bastian line for a while and so was thrilled to see photos from last week's presentation. I love it! It totally melds both Gant's design point of view with a classic Michael Bastian perspective. And I'm guessing the price point will be more amenable than that of Michael's signature collection.

Below you can see a glimpse of the Gant pieces (I love the green lacrosse sweater), and you can read more at Selectism: http://www.selectism.com/news/2010/02/14/gant-by-michael-bastian-autumnwinter-mmx/

Now, not to ignore Michael Bastian's own line... it was pretty fantastic too. Great sweaters and sports coats and patches (things he is always strong withi). But I especially drooled over the combo below...

And yes, his track record on handsome models is pretty good too! Check out more photos from his show here at GQ: http://www.gq.com/fashion-shows/brief/F2010MEN-MBMEN

Things I Want: Sweater from Commonwealth Utilities

I first became aware of Commonwealth Utilities because of some work connections... then last season they showed their collection at a barber shop in NY, which I thought was brilliant. Then I tried on a trench coat at Fred Segal and l-o-v-e-d it!

So today I was very excited to see some preview photos for F/W 2010!

Since I recently purchased some fantastic plaid pants at Uniqlo, I think the blue mock-neck sweater below would be a perfect addition!

You can see the rest of the photos courtesy of Hypebeast: http://hypebeast.com/2010/01/commonwealth-utilities-2010-fallwinter-collection/

Things I Love: J. Crew

Let me tell you, J. Crew is doing everything right. And their sales numbers prove it! With Mickey Drexler at the helm (and the amaaaaazing Jenna Lyons overseeing Women's) they are rockin' + rollin'.

I love the infusion of collaborated items (Field Notes notebooks, Timex vintage watches). I love the "Jenna's Picks" or "Jack Knows Best" to give some editing and context to a seasonal collection.

This holiday I bought my boyfriend a cashmere sweater from J. Crew... I had done some research and looked around, and I felt that for the price, quality, and cut it was the best deal out there. It looks (and feels) great!

But don't just take my word for it... go check out one of their stores for yourself. Or until you can get there, look at their website: www.jcrew.com

Enjoy!