David Hart Spring 2014: NYFW Review

I've been a fan of David Hart since he launched amazing neckwear. I interviewed him, saw some pre-season inspiration, and definitely purchased a number of fantastic ties. 

So I was excited last season when he expanded into apparel -- and his inaugural collection did not disappoint. This week he presented Spring '14 and I loved how rooted Hart has quickly become in use of key fabrics, and rooted in a nostalgic yet current point of view. 

My absolute favorite look was this 'lava' colored mohair suit. The deep rich color, the fit on the pants, and the fact that the fabric will surely be out of this world. 

The second look I gravitated towards was this custom printed shirt -- the horizontal colored bars actually reminded me of a pattern Loden Dager did a few seasons back, and it paired nicely with the linen pants and sandals. Perfect 'dinner on vacation' outfit.

Finally you have to love Hart's use of exquisite fabrics to create evening wear. I loved this shawl collar tuxedo jacket, the woven pattern, and slim cut. Of course if I picked up every tuxedo I was drawn too it'd be all I wore, but this is one to keep an eye on for a very special occasion.

This second collection was very wearable, didn't cling too closely to it's vintage inspiration (Jet age Hawaiian holiday), and is hopefully the beginning of more to come from David Hart. All images here...

Fall Styling: Three Looks from Ports 1961

I definitely have an affinity for Fall. The opportunity to buy sweaters, jackets, and all things wool is something I just can't resist. So it was without hesitation that I took Details magazine up on the offer to style a few Fall looks from the expansive closet of global brand Ports 1961. 

It was hard to actually settle on just three, but I loved what I was able to come up with, and hope you do too!

First up -- I saw this cashmere rollneck sweater in their lookbook and knew I had to include it in my pull. The heathered red mixed with the solid swoops stood out to me and it's a piece that you'll see from across the room.

I paired it with wool pants and amazing keltie loafers. These are the pieces I'd put together on a snowy day when staying warm (and looking good) is paramount.

Next, there was a windowpane suit that caught my eye. I am seemingly always on the hunt for a new suit, and this one fit like a dream. But before we dive in there, I threw on this fantastic coat.

Navy (my go-to color), light enough for a Fall day, and I loved the paneling on the back. It was a feature in a lot of the Ports 1961 pieces from this collection and I thought it was a great subtle touch.

Now, about that suit... have to love something off the rack that fits you this well. Great attention to detail and the pattern was classic yet compelling. Another pair of keltie loafers (these in blue on blue) rounded out the look.

The finale was an unstructured green jacket, wool pants, and pebbled leather boots. One of the reasons I had to try the jacket was how well it can go from casual to dressed up. Large front pockets, soft shoulders, and a rich color make this a perfect Fall choice.

The wool pants included more of the paneling seen in the navy jacket above, and went really well with the leather boots. I also grabbed this beautiful leather tote bag -- it's important to have something to throw your scarf, gloves, and other Fall necessities in.

Talk about a fun day... it was such a pleasure to get to experience Ports 1961 and have an advance look at some of my major wants for Fall. 

And finally, here's a quick behind the scenes video shot on set... enjoy!

Lapo Elkann for Gucci: Things I Love

Lapo Elkann, Fiat heir, CEO of Italia Indepenent, and all around style icon has now collaborated on a capsule collection for Gucci. It's well, a pretty robust capsule with both suiting and separates.

And for me it evokes an amazing throwback to Lapo's grandfather Gianni Agnelli -- wide lapels, spread collars, rich fabrics -- and an aesthetic that Lapo himself has largely adopted.

Here I've picked my three favorite looks, starting off with this great one button blazer paired with a wide collar button-down shirt, and very Gucci looking trousers. The beautiful carryall doesn't hurt either.

In the suiting department I loved the light windowpane for Fall, and the styling of the wider-than-currently-trending tie helps anchor the spread collar shirt. Office ready for sure.

And for a more formal night out -- this velvet double breasted tuxedo is the epitome of luxe. Staying on the wide collar trend, I feel like this jacket could sprout wings and fly, but I love how neatly tailored it is on the sides. Velvet is a bold choice for a tux, but that wasn't always the case -- again showing a nice look back at Italian fashion legacies.

All images here... and definitely a collection to watch for in-store.

Madras Short Suit from Black Fleece: Things I Want

Over the weekend I decided I couldn't wait any longer to see Black Fleece Spring '13 in store. So I went on over to the Bleecker street store + started trying it on... 

The banana leaf motif was especially fun, and definitely something you won't see elsewhere.

There was (unsurprisingly) a lot of madras and I loved it all... this light cotton cut-away jacket was a standout. The weight will be perfect for warmer weather and as with most things designed by Thom Browne it fit without much need for alteration.

Then I thought, why would I just want the madras jacket when I could get the shorts and have  a new Spring suit! The matching bermuda shorts are also lightweight, and with the knee-length I could get away wearing it to a dressier occasion. 

The shorts hadn't yet arrived in my size, so you're seeing it here on a model and not on me... yet! But stay tuned, I'm excited to grab this look for sunny days soon.

NYFW Review: Todd Snyder Fall 2013

Since launching his eponymous line, I've been a huge fan of Todd Snyder. Given how many people tell me they've bought his collection because they've heard me talk about it, I'm glad others are becoming TS converts!

Showing his Fall '13 collection yesterday at Lincoln Center, Snyder continued to impress -- venturing into a little more edge than seasons past while still delivering on the outerwear, suiting, and classic tailoring we've come to love.

I think my overall favorite piece, it literally made me pause, was this double breasted coat with (huge) shearling collar. Just amazing, and I love the shine and deep color combined with the contrast of the (warm) shearling.

Another standout was that Snyder moved past leather jackets and into... leather pants. Seen styled a few different ways (by the one and only Bruce Pask), this look stood out because of the windowpane cardigan and black shirt. Plus it was modeled by a favorite of mine, Clement Chabernaud.

This knit was fantastic, with the two pockets and neck closure. Given how often I have been layering this winter and going without a coat, I could definitely see wearing this next Fall just as it's shown here.

At first this striped sweater caught my eye, and then I noticed the other pieces -- these slouchy gray pants and the navy neckerchief. Rounds it out for a pulled together look that offers a lot of comfort. Was also really into the custom Vintage Shoe Company boots seen throughout...
 

I got a quick snap of part of the lineup -- where you can see the continuation of what Snyder rolled out for Fall... leather jacket, navy tuxedo (yes, please!), and a pony hair coat.
 

Todd Snyder continues down a very strong path -- bringing a well-rounded collection filled with tailored suiting, strong outerwear, and more casual pieces that give something for everyone. Can't wait to see this hit stores -- that double-breasted shearling coat will be mine! Check out the rest of the collection...

MSGM: Things I Love

I love that moment of discovery -- finding a new brand (or new to me) that strikes a chord and piques your interest. For me it was a few weeks ago while perusing Fucking Young and coming across some pictures from Italian brand MSGM.

Founded in 2008 they produce both men's and women's collections, full of prints and patterns and wholly unafraid of color. So of course I loved it.

Designed by Massimo Giorgetti (and tagged by Vogue Italia as "Who's On Next" in 2010), there is a definite youthfulness to the men's selections. I started to see influences from Dries, Frankie Morello, Jeremy Scott, and Marni. 

Here a few of my favorite looks from the soon to be released Spring '13:

A mind-bending green and yellow dot print, shawl collar, and cropped just enough pant makes this a perfect bright + light suited look for Spring.

Multi-colored knit that is eye-catching but not overpowering, paired with a red and navy print short, cuffed for a neat and tidy look.

This jacket really did it for me -- either paired with the black and white shirt seen here, or just a black shirt and cropped white shorts. 

Now for the tricky part, finding MSGM in the States. Frankly, good luck (especially for men's). But check out their website + perhaps your upcoming European travels will score you some fun additions for Spring!

Spread Collar Shirts from Sid Mashburn: Things I Have

Last week I was briefly in Atlanta, en route to Florida beaches to ring in 2013. While in town, I had to make a stop by Sid Mashburn, the venerable men's shop with some of the best merchandising around. 

While there I decided to pick up a couple of spread collar shirts from Sid's private label. I loved the colors of this one -- they call it a cheery "childrens-book plaid". The flannel was thin enough that I can wear it with a tie, but still give some winter warmth. Small but thick buttons dress it up a bit, and the cut is slim enough so as not to billow under a jacket.

I also grabbed this great tattersall in wine and black -- a little more dressy than the flannel (and I felt a little more suited to Spring), but the colors stood out to me.

My last time in Atlanta I ordered a beautiful Made to Measure gingham suit from Sid, and picked up a few items for my mother at his wife's store -- Ann Mashburn. Since that visit the two stores have combined, they're now connected by a clever back hallway that allows you to move back and forth and keep you in a total Mashburn induced haze.

Just One Look: Black Fleece Spring 2013

Last week Black Fleece showed its Spring '13 collection and yet again Thom Browne delivered the right mix of classic Brooks Brothers pieces (infused with his own silhouette) and a slew of punchy, colorful, and print laden looks.

For Spring '12 I purchased quite a bit (too much?) of Black Fleece, including a seersucker striped jacket, rollneck sweater, and canvas duffel and so was curious to see what next year's version would include.

Moving into Spring there was a tropical inspiration with bright madras + large printed palm fronds. For me the look that stood out was this mix of stripes + prints -- the jacket is a classic that has been re-worked, paired with patterned shorts and a diamond-print shirt. The tote bag was a nice addition, incorporating Browne's red/white/blue core. Hopefully they will roll the design out to a variety of bags, like they did this Spring, to provide some summer luggage options.

Essential Homme has all of the looks -- start brainstorming where your palm frond suit will make its debut!

Maison Kitsune Spring '13: Things I Love

I was recently commenting on the frequency of shorts suits being shown in Paris and Milan for Spring '13 -- and Maison Kitsune's collection for the season is no exception. And to be clear, I like it! It ties in well to my own tendency towards a cropped look and also helps to beat the summer heat.

This first look from Kitsune is a favorite of mine, with a great shock of plaid. Together it really stands out, but you could take each piece separately and put together a great look.

If you know me, you know I'm a francophile and so the use of the tricolor on this polo will get me every time.

 

Another (more tame) shorts suit, this one more aligned with traditional suiting, and perhaps a more acceptable option for the office.

Now that Kitsune has a store here in NYC, I've been dropping by to check out their wares in person... but you can get on their website to see more!

Tee Shirt from Todd Snyder: Things I Have

I have been following menswear designer Todd Snyder since he launched his eponymous line, and have enjoyed the aesthetic: put together but not too much so, military influences, and a very high quality product.

A couple of weeks ago I visited their summer pop-up at Odin, where fantastic suits (and a tux) are available... and I couldn't resist grabbing a tie while I was there.

This past weekend I went back to Odin, to try on a few summer shirts and fell in love with the Todd Snyder tee. It has to be the softest, most comfortable tee I've tried on. I love the wide neck, the slouchy fit, and the heathered color. 

Couldn't resist taking it home + now it's packed for next week's Turkish cruise! Odin has more Snyder for you... check it out!

Gingham Suit from Sid Mashburn: Things I (Almost) Have

I'd written earlier this week about my incredible visit to Sid Mashburn, during last weekend's trip to Atlanta. While I wanted to check out the store for myself, my friend Ankur also wanted to get some new suits, so we were on a mission... 

The store was crowded when we arrived but all of a sudden someone comes from the back and asks if we need help, and it was Sid himself. The next three hours were the most inspiring a menswear nerd like myself could ever have.

Sid brought swatch book after swatch book, until we settled on the three fabrics Ankur wanted. He did the fittings himself and was so incredibly helpful. 

During the whole process I had come across a gingham swatch that I fell in love with. Something about it caught my eye + I knew I'd end up with it... 

I told Sid I wanted a full suit in the gingham -- and off we went! Did the fitting, made adjustments to the pockets, the pant cuff (I went a bit higher than most), and the buttons (I wanted a navy horn versus the standard black).

Now have a 4-6 week wait for the suit to arrive, and I cannot wait. I also cannot thank Sid and his team enough for their patience, insight, and overall awesomeness. I'm definitely a fan.

And I'll definitely be sharing pics when I wear it out for the first time!

Suits from Ana Locking: Things I Love

I've been following label Ana Locking for a while and was excited by their Fall '12 collection. And no, not because they featured Clement Chabernaud (well, maybe a little).

I am always attracted to color and pattern, and they did a great job here of blending it with classic pieces and a buttoned up "gentlemanly" aesthetic.

There's great tailoring, and I'm really into the three piece suits, especially the red plaid shown below. Of course the pops of yellow are also a draw, and I think an interesting color selection to bring into Fall.

Overall a concise collection that stays true to it's theme... and I'm going to keep my eyes out for that red suit (and raffia wrapped briefcase!). More info via Hypebeast...

Thom Browne Seersucker Suit: Things I Have

Last week was the Thom Browne sample sale. Of course this gives a brand fan like me chills... and has me start plotting how I am going to get there, find some amazing buys, and leave as quickly as possible. Think about the show Supermarket Sweep...

Anyway, I made a stop after work on Friday, by which point most things were gone. However I did pick up a couple of great shirts, some shoes (more on that to come), and an amazing seersucker suit.

When I tried on the coat at the sale, it fit me perfectly and I was so excited. Utilizing Thom Browne's usual red, white, blue stripe it is light and perfect for warm weather. I cannot wait for Spring to come, so I can wear this out!

The inside pocket, lists the size as "Sample". And the buttons came in this really cute manila envelope with a "TB" label on it.

As soon as I got home I tried it one, and it all fit like a glove. I am ready to go!

Suit from Frankie Morello: Things I Love

I have always been drawn to bright things. Color, patterns, pop -- I love it all. So this morning I came across this campaign for Frankie Morello and just couldn't take my eyes off this bright floral suit.

And by suit I mean... shirt, tie, jacket, pants all the same print. It's kind of insane + kind of genius. I want the whole look! While definitely something you couldn't do season after season, pieces of this ensemble could be re-purposed with dark jeans or a white shirt.

I'm definitely a fan! Go to The Fashionisto to check out the rest of the new campaign...

Patterned Suit from Viktor & Rolf: Things I Want

The Paris Men's shows are underway and I was just cruisin' through some shots of Viktor & Rolf. Amazing. I have really been fans of these guys for such a long time... they're always quirky but always uber creative.

I remember when I was living in Amsterdam and I *swore* I saw the two designers in a bar. I wanted to go say 'hi', but I blinked and they were gone. Perhaps just an illusion?

So their presentation contained some great pieces -- I loved the quilted jackets, especially the one with quilted arms, a cotton body, and corduroy collar. So fun.

But my favorite look was this black and gray patterned suit. I'm obsessed with patterned suits lately (hello, Tom Ford). This one is great because it stands out but the colors are muted enough that you do a double take when you see it. Sort of like an illusion...

You must check out the other looks via Fashionisto.

Things I Want: Opening Ceremony x Levi's Corduroy Suit

Hot off the fashion presses! From the collaboration between Opening Ceremony (which I have to admit has dethroned Barney's as my favorite retail experience) and Levi's... a 3 piece corduroy suit. Amazing! I love corduroy (my Bonobos pants are the most comfortable things ever) and to have shirt, pants, and jacket would be so fantastic. And all in tone-on-tone! And it comes in 7 colorways! I can't wait!

Here's a sneak peak but I am sure we'll get more photos shortly... stay tuned.

More details and photos about the suit here: http://www.selectism.com/news/2010/02/03/levis-cords-for-opening-ceremony/

Things I Want: Suit + Shoes by Band of Outsiders

I was a lucky guy and also attended the Band of Outsiders Fall '09 presentation last week. It was outstanding! I've long been a fan and think this collection had some great pieces.

My favorite was this three piece suit -- I really liked the sheen, and I am a sucker for all things blue. Also a must have are the shoes, part of a collaboration done with Sperry. The rubber boat shoes were just awesome and I want a pair. Stat!

You can check out the whole collection at: http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/F2009MEN/complete/thumb/BOOMEN?trend=&page=1