Lemon & Lime Shirt from Gitman Vintage: Things I Want

On what is a truly crappy weather day here in NYC, I had to share this bright & fun Gitman Vintage shirt that I came across in Barney's San Francisco last week.

Short sleeve, slim fit, and with enough pop to brighten any dreary day -- this will be a must-pack for my end of Winter/early Spring beach and warm weather destinations. 

More details (or you can just go ahead and buy it) here at Barney's.

Birds for Spring: Things I Love

Walking to work this morning, in 18 degree weather, I decided it was time for some warmer weather. Or a glimpse of Spring. 

These bird-themed accessories that I'd seen recently came to mind. Herschel has this fantastic backpack that I'd be more likely to tote around the city than on an Audubon hike, but it definitely spoke to me of Spring.

Another bird related piece is this navy five baseball cap from Ami. Perfect for a picnic in the park, a run along the water, or a day at the beach.

I definitely want to rock these two together, and find some bird shorts to go with them! Shorts weather can't come soon enough...

Sweatshirt from Tim Coppens: Things I Want

As most of you know, I've become slightly obsessed with the designs of Tim Coppens since he launched his label a few seasons ago. His outerwear for Fall '12 was incredible with a use of stitching, mixed materials, and the highest quality hardware I've seen.

When he showed his Spring '13 collection I was equally wowed and had a few standout pieces -- bomber jackets, a continued infusion of technical fabrics, and stitched leather.

So yesterday when I made my bi-weekly trip to Barney's, I was thrilled to see some pieces from this Spring collection in the store. I picked out this navy and black sweatshirt with leather arm panel.... it was (unsurprisingly) incredible. 

Fairly lightweight despite the layering of materials, it fit me perfectly, and was extremely comfortable. The leather pocket on the sleeve, with Coppens now signature gold hardware, was a mix of fashion and function that made the piece stand out.

Now when Coppens showed it in his Spring presentation it was paired with quilted leather shorts, that I was salivating over (and still am). 

Barney's didn't get those in yet, but I will put both pieces on my wishlist... and here's to hoping! See all of Tim Coppen's Spring collection here.

Pitti Uomo: Quote of the Week

I was fascinated with this statement today from Tom Kalenderian at Barney's, in reaction to some of the luxury offerings at this week's Pitti Uomo: 

“Without question, the taste level of the luxury exhibitors is exceptional; however, it is geared for the local market more than international,” said Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s wear at Barneys New York. 

“The sportswear is the biggest issue. We would be able to buy more if it was styled in a more contemporary way. There is tremendous opportunity as there is a great audience for luxury and good taste, but while the product is beautiful, with exquisite materials and details, they haven’t been able to translate it into a modern lifestyle. 

When you think about what Brunello Cucinelli, Massimo Piombo and Zegna, who is not showing here, have been able to do…it’s about filling this void; the younger guys really do appreciate luxury, but they still want it to fit in a modern way.”

... via WWD

Double Breasted Blazer from Band of Outsiders: Things I Have

To readers of this site, it will come as no surprise that I have been searching for a great double breasted blazer. Last Spring I thought I'd found one in linen, only to discard it as too seasonal (and too prone to wrinkling). So my search continued... until now. 

I was recently doing some Fall shopping at Barney's and came across a beautiful DB from Band of Outsiders. As soon as I tried it on I knew I'd found a winner... it fit perfectly throughout the shoulders and the arms, and with Band's tendency towards cropped jackets, the length is just as I like it. 

There are suede elbow patches, and it is lined in the classic blue & white stripe that the brand is known for. However the best part of all is that it is made from a wool and cashmere blend, making it the warmest sturdiest softest blazer I may ever own.

I wore it for the first time this week and whether buttoned (where it fits perfectly snug) or unbuttoned (where the drape of the jacket adds great dimension), I have definitely invested in a piece I will have and wear for a long time to come. 

Burgundy Blazer from Carven: Things I Have

Ever since Guillaume Henry took over the design reins at Carven I've become a big fan. The Fall line continued to impress and while at Barney's last month I tried on the "Paul" jacket and pants in burgundy... a color that seems to be everywhere and was called out by GQ as a seasonal trend.

Well I went back to Barney's over the weekend + picked up the blazer. It's cotton gabardine and so perfect for transitional Fall temps. It also has the cropped silhouette that I've found in much of the Carven pieces and which I tend to gravitate towards

I already wore it for the first time, paired with a burgundy knit tie and striped oxford. Ready for Fall!

Check out the rest of the Fall collection + you can head to Barney's like I did to pick up one for yourself!

Transition to Fall: A Style Guide

While items for Fall have been trickling into stores for a while now, it can be hard to visualize why you need that great new sweater when even the thought of going outside makes you sweat. 

But I felt it was time for a story on transitional dressing into the new season and how to create versatile looks. The key word is: versatility. With a few key pieces you can easily be comfortable in and out of work, and even continue wearing some of it once winter approaches. 

To that end I relied heavily on two retailers that have been focusing on growing their men's business: Club Monaco and J. Crew. Each are accessible and provide a mix of basics and more seasonal trend driven items.

Look #1: 

In colder months I love using texture to create a standout look. Here the heft of the tweed jacket contrasts against the formality of the slacks. Using a small-checked shirt provides  pattern-on-pattern with the striped wool tie. While the burgundy brogue may not be for everyone it is a rich color and stands out.

Jacket: Aubin & Wills (similar), Shirt: Club Monaco, Pants: J. Crew, Tie: Fahlgren, Shoes: Florsheim by Duckie Brown

For a more casual day I swapped out the blazer for a shawl collar sweater. I'm a big fan of a shawl collar as it provides a nice smooth visual line around the neck. In a cream color this one lightens up the whole look, and while the sweater keeps the whole outfit business ready it is also a comfortable alternative.

Shawl collar sweater: Club Monaco (similar)

Look #2:

Again using texture was important, as seen with the quilted vest and corduroy tie. I used a white oxford and ginger khaki as the base so there would be more neutral colors to contrast with the shock of yellow. I have always been drawn to a bright hue like this, and think it is perfect for the transition into Fall. It also serves as the fashion piece that helps pull together your basics. We kept the brogues as again that rich color provided a nice blend with the rest.

Quilted Vest: Club Monaco, Oxford Shirt: Uniqlo, Pants: Club Monaco, Tie: Unis (similar), Shoes: As above, Bag: Model's own

For the variation here I replaced the vest with a cotton shirt jacket. The navy darkens the whole look -- and while I personally haven't worn any camo, everyone else seems to be, and the collar is a nice surprise. To take him from the office to canvassing design showrooms, we switched out the footwear to a bold red sneaker. Still holds its own with the rest of the look!

Shirt Jacket: Unis, Shoes: Nike

Look #3:

Now I don't subscribe to "no white after Labor Day" and received some looks when wearing white jeans during fashion week. But I think when changing seasons it is perfectly acceptable. Paired with a gray heathered shirt for a soft and nubby feel, and with a military inspired khaki tie. I kept the shirt jacket which can stand in for a casual blazer, and those red sneakers just wouldn't quit.

Shirt Jacket: As above, Shirt: Club Monaco, Jeans: Uniqlo, Tie: Todd Snyder, Shoes: As Above, Bag: As Above

As seen here it didn't require a whole new closet to create a lot of different looks -- you can even pull from what you already have. Everything shown can be worn in any number of ways -- encouraging layering, mixing up colors, and making it your own! 

Photo Credit: Mikey Kay

Model: Jon Call

Michael Bastian Spring 2013: NYFW Review

I still remember the first Michael Bastian show I attended, in a cool warehouse building. He ran the show multiple times, so you could arrive at any time and see it. Well, times sure have changed!

Bastian's show is now one of the most anticipated on the NYFW men's circuit, and his move from Exit Art to Milk this season has amped it up even more. And as expected, Spring 2013 did not disappoint. Partially inspired by being poolside in Fire Island, there was a definite ease and flow, which was seamlessly integrated into the suiting and knitwear. 

The first thing I noticed in the collection was the use of cross-body kimono style tops. I liked how they felt more loose and casual, but fit right into the Bastian aesthetic.

 Double-breasted knitwear. That's all I needed to see and knew I'd want it.

Continuing with the double-breasted, this single button jacket really stood out. It continued the relaxed feel of the collection and I could imagine pulling on this beautiful piece with a pair of shorts and having lunch beach side.

There were also some really interesting knits in the mix for Spring -- while the giraffe spotted shoulders got a lot of attention, I really liked this one with the soft mix of color and the jagged lines.

The final look was this fantastic evening jacket with a slim black shawl collar. Worn by Noah Mills, with giraffe print Stubbs & Wooten slippers, it was not what I'd wear to dinner on Fire Island, but definitely got me in the mood for summer soirees.
 

Overall another very strong showing from Michael Bastian -- a collection that was consistent and very on-brand, while stretching and expanding so as to remain fresh and new. Can't wait to see it in stores come Spring and have that single button DB high on my want list! 

Check out the rest of the collection at GQ...

Blazer + Pants from Carven: Things I Want

Last weekend as I was checking out the new Fall goods I came across a fantastic blazer/pant combo from Carven. You may remember how excited I was to get a blazer from their Spring collection when I was last in Paris... the line continues to have a great subtle French influence and a nice slim and cropped fit.

The burgundy color of these pieces is the first thing that caught my eye, and I could definitely see myself mixing and matching this color as the season changes. When I tried it on the jacket fit well -- perhaps a little snug for some, but I liked the shorter length and high arm holes. The pants also worked well, and were just short enough that when paired with my Tretorns it had a nice pulled together but casual vibe.

 

I tried it all on at Barney's but you can find out more (and see other Carven for Fall) over at Mr. Porter. 

Trousers from BASCO: Things I Have

Yesterday I needed to make a trip into Barney's... Fall collections have been arriving and I specifically wanted to see Tim Coppens, Thom Grey (Thom Browne's new diffusion line), and BASCO. The last is a re-launch of an in-house label, Barney's Sportwear Company. 

There were some really interesting pieces in the BASCO line and I tried on a few of them... but my standout favorite were these gabardine trousers. I liked the pleated front, the button flap pockets, and the cropped ankle with side buttons.

Picked up the pants and am wearing them today (I couldn't resist). They fit great and are so comfortabe. 100% cotton + made in Italy...  you can check out the rest of the BASCO pieces here!

Buckle Brogue by Thom Browne: Things I Want

There is a lot of good Thom Browne news lately... first I found out he is launching a new lower priced line called Thom Grey (can't wait to head to Barney's to check that out). Now I've come across these brogues he's done for Fall. And I'm hooked.

Nothing too crazy about the shoe itself, just a great classic black brogue. But I love the silver buckle with the TB-esque grosgrain strap. Such a subtle but cool touch to the shoe.

They're available now at oki-ni for 850 GBP (definitely an investment shoe), but read more over at Hypebeast.

Leather + Rubber Lace-Ups from Prada: Things I Want

Last Friday I decided to go check out the new shoe floor at Barney's -- they've turned the fifth floor into a mixed men's and women's shoe palace... 

I have to admit I was really impressed. The space is beautiful, well laid out, and there was an interesting mix of men's shoes available.  Definitely an opportunity for Barney's to grow and expand in this category. 

While I was exploring I saw some amazing Rick Owens hightops, the Balenciaga sneakers I've been ogling, and these amazing Prada lace-ups.

These are incredible -- a leather lace-up with a rubber outer layer applied to the sole and the bottom third of the shoe. The pointed protrusions on the sole are a little much for me, but I could get over it just based on the novelty.

I feel like I'd need a Prada suit to go with these shoes, or something very classic that can handle the shocking red rubber... but I'd be willing to give it a try! Check them out here on the Prada site.

Anchor Bracelets from Miansai: Things I Have

Ever since launching his accessories brand Miansai, Michael Saiger has been attracting a lot of followers. Using designs of woven ropes, anchors, and fish hooks there is a nautical theme running through many of his handmade pieces.

Given my predilection for anything nautical, I have been a fan of a lot of Saiger's work, so was thrilled to receive some of them for my recent birthday.

I have to admit I was really pleased with how soft the leather is, and I really liked the color contrast, making them easy to mix and match on my wrist. 

While his website has a full offering of products, Barney's carries quite a few of them online and in-store as well. 

Men's Threads Press: What To Wear to Work

The Wall Street Journal did a story this week on what people who work in fashion wear to work... and they included me, Men's Threads! The story commented on my sockless look (of course) and on my rolled pants...

You'll recognize all of the pieces I am wearing -- especially the bandana tie, for which a lot of you have commented, and requested one of your own. Also wearing a Uniqlo Oxford, another Men's Threads fav. And my N. Hoolywood blazer...

Was definitely excited to see the whole look in print -- you can see the digital version here!

Double Breasted Blazer from AMI: Things I Want

I decided to do a little Spring browsing at Barney's over the weekend and tried on quite a few things... Band of Outsiders, Dries, Shipley Halmos. But the one piece I tried that I can not stop thinking about is this double breasted blazer from French label AMI.

It's really lightweight, had a great texture to the fabric, and fit perfectly. No surprise I was drawn to yet another navy jacket, but I really fell in love with this.

This shot is from the label's lookbook and doesn't really do it justice... you have to go in and try it on!

Am definitely going to keep this on my want list... another great delivery from Alexandre Mattiussi at AMI.

Shirt from FLAPH x Barney's: Things I Want

This morning I came across this shirt on Hypebeast and with the red, white, and blue cuffs thought for a second it was from Thom Browne.

But no, it is Japanese label FLAPH, done in collaboration with Barney's. I love the spread collar, detailed tailoring, and that it is made of a quick drying fabric (summer swelter, anyone?). And of course for me, the tri-color ribbed cuff is the selling point, that touch of individuality that makes it (and you) stand out.

Head over to Hypebeast to see the shirt in blue, and you can also link to the FLAPH's own site.

Document Case from Pierre Hardy: Things I Want

I've long been a fan of Pierre Hardy -- those hightops with the geometric print keep me mesmerized. And then I've seen sneak peeks at his accessories and found them equally cool. But it wasn't until last week that I realized Barney's carries a number of them.

So now I'm obsessed with getting this side zip portfolio... in red. It's big enough to fit under my arm and carry documents, keys, passport, etc. and definitely makes a statement!

Check it out here on the Barney's site, along with the other Pierre Hardy pieces.

Cable Crewneck from Ami: Things I Have

While in San Francisco this week I did a little post-holiday perusal at Barney's. Without intending to (isn't that always the case), I walked away with a few things... one of which was this great cableknit sweater from French label Ami.

I'd been at the Ami launch at Barney's in NYC and had been impressed with the collection. This sweater fits perfectly, the sleeves are a little long (which is perfect for winter wear), and it is super soft. I haven't taken it off since I bought it.

There are some good deals on Ami right now, go check it out on the Barney's site...

Behind The Scenes: Loden Dager

As a follower of menswear there are two things that never fail to excite: seeing a collection on a runway and meeting with a designer in their studio.

The former is pretty obvious -- there is the music, the crowd, and seeing the pieces as the designer envisioned and styled it. The latter is the most unique opportunity to have a one-on-one conversation about the line, but also to see the environment that drives their work... fabric swatches, sketches, samples.

So when I had the invitation to meet with Loden Dager designer Paul Marlow in the brand's studio, I didn't hesitate to accept. I'm a longtime fan -- smart tailoring, unique detail + function, and a well balanced infusion of color and prints.

Sitting in the studio, surrounded by the aforementioned swatches, buttons, and Fall 2012 samples (my lips are sealed), I got to dive into what the brand is up to, and where they're headed.

Marlow (right) with Oliver Helden

The customer: "They want consistency", Marlow explained. Taking key silhouettes each season and changing the fabric or the details gives men reassurance the pieces will always fit as they expect, but keeps their look updated and fresh.

The collection: "I started making the pieces I'd want to wear...", but as the brand matures it seems important to Marlow that while everyone may not identify with each piece, the entire collection fits what his customer is looking for.

The production: "It makes it really easy having most of the collection produced seven blocks away", allowing for tweaks and modifications that would otherwise take a plane ride or a month of e-mail. Certain items are done in Los Angeles, Peru, Portugal based on the core production strength of those regions.

The show: "It really takes you away from everything", commenting on the subterranean venue where they've been holding their runway spectaculars (including personal fav Clement Chabernaud).

What's next: All I can say is... it's exciting. From what Marlow described about his plans for Fall 2012, as well as some expanding categories they are looking at, there is definite growth and excitement coming from the Loden Dager camp.

Stay tuned to more news via their blog, and for my recap after their Fall 2012 show in a few weeks!

Pleated Trouser from Gant Rugger: Things I Have

I've had my eye on this pair of trousers from Gant Rugger ever since they released for Fall. But every time I was either in the Rugger store or at Barney's, they were always sold out of my size.

So I was pretty excited this week when I popped into Barney's Beverly Hills and they had them! Grabbed them and ran...

It's a great lightweight trouser, with a mild pleat. Very slim tailoring and I love the fit.

They're available on the Barney's site, go check them out!