Orley Fall 2014: NYFW Review

Well this NYFW I am unfortunately missing the bulk of my favorite shows due to a last minute work trip to Seattle. But that doesn't stop me from poring over show reports, Instagram images, and back stage photos to see what I've missed in person!

Yesterday the team at Orley showed their first full rtw collection in what is a brilliant leap from what started as a (beautiful) offering of knit ties. I've been a fan since they launched said ties, but what they've accomplished for Fall '14 is incredible.

One of my favorite looks included this jacket -- I loved the off-white color for Fall and the attention to detail with the leather trim on the collar and around the sleeves. 

Another standout was this cream knit turtleneck with a complex stitch pattern as seen from the front... but with a really clever surprise in the back (click the link, it's definitely worth a look).

But I think my favorite look was where they centered on their sweet-spot and then blew it up. Knit sweater x knit pants with a really great grid pattern. As Bruce Pask just wrote about the trend in luxe sweat pants, the Orley version should not be ignored. 

I am super excited to see this hit stores but more importantly to see what comes next for the team at Orley! Full collection images at Fucking Young...

Todd Snyder Spring 2014: NYFW Review

It's no secret I am a big fan of Todd Snyder (and not just because I was able to wear one of his tuxedos to the CFDA awards this year). Since launching, he has stayed on a consistent path with each collection, diverging slightly for a number of well-placed collabs -- Champion, Gap (for GQ Menswear Designer), suiting by Southwick.

For Spring '14 he continued on the consistency track, with a solid showing of everything from casual tees to printed blazers, and awesomely tailored pants and shorts.

My first favorite look was this striped tee paired with navy trousers. Loved the simplicity of the pieces together + I can already tell those pants will be a great addition to my Spring wardrobe.

Second on standouts from the presentation was partially due to the man wearing the clothes. I was really taken with this model and the attitude he exuded -- definitely felt right for the brand. But that aside, I loved the light button down with the plaid pants. The blues and greens make this a great transition piece as it could easily move into Fall.

And my third favorite was this blue coat -- a nice update from a traditional navy trench. The pleated shorts are another Spring must-have (yes, pleats done right are back).

While getting into the actual Todd Snyder presentation was a harrowing experience (Jenna Lyons, Frank Muytjens, and a couple of Jonas Brothers were there), it was definitely worth it. You can see the full collection here.

David Hart Spring 2014: NYFW Review

I've been a fan of David Hart since he launched amazing neckwear. I interviewed him, saw some pre-season inspiration, and definitely purchased a number of fantastic ties. 

So I was excited last season when he expanded into apparel -- and his inaugural collection did not disappoint. This week he presented Spring '14 and I loved how rooted Hart has quickly become in use of key fabrics, and rooted in a nostalgic yet current point of view. 

My absolute favorite look was this 'lava' colored mohair suit. The deep rich color, the fit on the pants, and the fact that the fabric will surely be out of this world. 

The second look I gravitated towards was this custom printed shirt -- the horizontal colored bars actually reminded me of a pattern Loden Dager did a few seasons back, and it paired nicely with the linen pants and sandals. Perfect 'dinner on vacation' outfit.

Finally you have to love Hart's use of exquisite fabrics to create evening wear. I loved this shawl collar tuxedo jacket, the woven pattern, and slim cut. Of course if I picked up every tuxedo I was drawn too it'd be all I wore, but this is one to keep an eye on for a very special occasion.

This second collection was very wearable, didn't cling too closely to it's vintage inspiration (Jet age Hawaiian holiday), and is hopefully the beginning of more to come from David Hart. All images here...

Michael Bastian Spring 2014: NYFW Review

Yesterday menswear maestro Michael Bastian showed his Spring '14 collection and he continues to show he knows his sweet spot and how to pivot from it.

The sweet spot -- whimsical knits, well tailored jackets, short shorts, and a continuation of Stubbs & Wooten slippers -- were there and updated to reflect Bastian's Parisian inspiration. 

The pivot -- a fantastic pineapple print, more athletic driven pieces, and a bag collaboration with Frank Clegg -- rounded out a very solid collection for Spring.

Three of my favorite looks:

Those damn pineapple pants! Bastian did the print in shorts and a hat, but the pants are totally me and I'll be coveting them come Spring.

The backgammon sweater. He's always in for a playful knit and this one has just enough subtlety that it takes you a minute to know what you're looking at.

Peak label printed tuxedo jacket. Bastian continues to design tuxedo jackets that don't take themselves too seriously, and I love it. What better way to stand out at a 'black tie' than in a white tie and eye-catching jacket!

Another strong showing and gives me something to look forward to next season... check out the whole collection over at GQ.

Black Fleece Fall 2013: NYFW Review

Frequent readers know how fanatical I've become about Black Fleece, the Thom Browne designed collection for Brooks Brothers. It is a fantastic integration of Browne's unique design aesthetic positioned for the BB customer. The line was featured prominently in my Week of Wearing Thom Browne -- so I was excited to see what would be on offer for Fall 2013. 

Maybe I'm becoming too accustomed to the Browne's style, and am less "shockable" because I found next season to be somewhat muted. Especially when considered with some of what is in store for Spring!

This black and white jacket and trousers was part of a large story Browne did in that palette, contrasting the use of each color to have it really pop.

Seems I can't get enough tartan in my life -- this double breasted jacket and shorts was my favorite look of all. I loved the rich colors for Fall and the v-neck sweater underneath complements it nicely.

Continuing the black and white, here in more refined suiting, can also produce dizzy spells. I actually liked the subtlety of it from afar, and how you get a different sense of the houndstooth up close. It reminded me of the black and blue gingham suit I ordered last year from Sid Mashburn.

I've acquired quite a few of the accessories Browne designs with the collection: here, here,  here. The pebbled leather pieces are especially great, and so this tote for Fall quickly became a must have. Pebbled brown leather + the Thom Browne red/white/blue stripe, a winning combination.

Overall I found the collection to be a strong continuation of the brand and perhaps focusing on converting even more Brooks Brothers loyalists. Austin Wong at Why You Mad blog has more photos.

Michael Bastian Fall 2013: NYFW Review

Before showing his Fall 2013 collection, Michael Bastian hinted it would be about the darker side of New England. And there was definitely an edge to his looks on Tuesday night -- from eyeliner on the models, to a more somber palette, and some styling techniques (read: skinny suspenders + buttoned up polos) that gave me a little British goth influence. 

Bastian delivered on the amazing suiting he has become known for -- here with this double-breasted version worn by model Tom Bull (who has been everywhere this season). The tartan duffel is nice complement, and would be a spirited bag for Fall.

In a more casual suited look, this styling is pure Bastian -- the pants a little low-slung, the iconic belt buckle, and layered vest.

Here was another sweet spot -- gorgeous knits infused with an eye-catching pattern. Paired with these shockingly red pants and light overcoat complete a rainy day look, and one that I could definitely see myself in.

An example of the 'darker' side of this collection, this quilted black jacket (with extensive fur collar, naturally) and black leather pants. While Bastian's version of the pant is a little less fitted than what I saw at Todd Snyder, it's an interested trend for Fall. I also like the stitched knees (something Bastian also used on the Gant side for Spring).

Overall a strong continuation of the Michael Bastian brand, seen through such a clear lens that you see it and just know it's him. The edgier side is a nice translation for Fall and is in line with what a number of men's designers are channeling... go here for all photos of the collection.

J. Crew Fall 2013: Just One Look

Yesterday Frank Muytjens showed J. Crew's Fall '13 for men, with an update on their classics. There were some colorful knits, solid suiting, and an awesome shiny waxed coat. 

But if I had to pick one look that was my favorite, it was this denim x denim rust colored jacket and jean combo. Not the first time they've shown something like this, but I loved the color, accented with the navy coat and scarf. I think I'd wear it with a colorful tie, for some pop.

Hypebeast has all of the looks here -- it was hard to choose just one favorite, so check them out.

Tim Coppens Fall 2013: NYFW Review

For Fall 2013, Tim Coppens was inspired by periods of his adolescence and particularly around skateboarding and graffiti. It meant showing a paint splatter graffiti print + voluminous sleeves like "the padding and volume of a youth's skateboarding gear". 

But all of that was rooted in silhouettes and design themes Coppens has slowly laid out each season... so back were the leather shoulders, the folded over collars, strong and robust hardware, and seams that create a paneled geometry. 

To the point of evolving from some already determined themes -- the zippers and rounded copper buttons on this shirt are being revisited from seasons past, creating a look one starts to identify strongly with the label. And these quilted pants caught my eye and were instantly added to my 'want' list. Seen a lot of quilting this season, but these pants (with the elastic cuffs) are too good.

This wool and leather jacket definitely stood out -- again a take on a piece Coppens delivered for Fall '12, but pushed out into the skater inspiration for this collection. I'm always taken with how he mixes materials, and uses seams and stitching to create texture and contrast.

My third favorite look was this navy cashmere and leather snap varsity jacket. Again, great use of materials and the leather shoulders are a Coppens trait seen season after season.

What I liked the most was the continuation he took from Spring '13 -- with a crossover on the color palette, where I felt I could definitely wear this sweatshirt I recently tried with the quilted pants for Fall. A more refined collection + excited to see where he goes next! All of the looks here... 

Ovadia & Sons Fall 2013: Things I Love

The brothers of Ovadia & Sons continue to deliver the necessary pieces for a gentleman's wardrobe -- high quality, well crafted, classic pieces. But they deliver these collections season after season in a way that makes men of all ages want to look sharp and thoughtful about what they're wearing. 

Fall 2013 is no exception -- suiting, jackets, outerwear, knits -- all designed and styled to be completely approachable and easy to mix with anything else you've already got. There was also some whimsy -- jacket and pants with two-tone panelling gave an optical treat, and zig-zag striped ski sweaters took me back to the 1970's.

A key look for me was this navy blazer layered with red and black sweater and gray trousers. Simple yet neat. The double breasted military style coat in the background could easily be thrown over it all as it gets colder.

From the looks of it three-piece suiting is on a rise, and this version with the high-buttoned vest seems a good investment.

Finally, I couldn't resist the windowpane suit (so good), the tartan shawl, or the beret... the francophile in me just leapt at this whole look. 

You can see the rest of the collection here... all shot by rising star photographer Justin Chung. and given the Ovadia brothers are now also designing York Street for J. Press, expect to see more of them and their work.

Sweatshirt from Tim Coppens: Things I Want

As most of you know, I've become slightly obsessed with the designs of Tim Coppens since he launched his label a few seasons ago. His outerwear for Fall '12 was incredible with a use of stitching, mixed materials, and the highest quality hardware I've seen.

When he showed his Spring '13 collection I was equally wowed and had a few standout pieces -- bomber jackets, a continued infusion of technical fabrics, and stitched leather.

So yesterday when I made my bi-weekly trip to Barney's, I was thrilled to see some pieces from this Spring collection in the store. I picked out this navy and black sweatshirt with leather arm panel.... it was (unsurprisingly) incredible. 

Fairly lightweight despite the layering of materials, it fit me perfectly, and was extremely comfortable. The leather pocket on the sleeve, with Coppens now signature gold hardware, was a mix of fashion and function that made the piece stand out.

Now when Coppens showed it in his Spring presentation it was paired with quilted leather shorts, that I was salivating over (and still am). 

Barney's didn't get those in yet, but I will put both pieces on my wishlist... and here's to hoping! See all of Tim Coppen's Spring collection here.

Billy Reid Fall 2013: NYFW Review

Billy Reid's knack at delivering classic silhouettes with an infusion of Southern tradition was on full display again for Fall '13. Included were rugged leathers, layers in a range of browns and oranges, and more of the outerwear that Reid did so well in Fall '12.

A standout look for me was this gorgeous overcoat and the amazing red/rust colored pants. Must have those pants! The slim leg with a slightly larger ankle opening is perfect for the boots Reid puts out regularly... but the color has a subtle wear to it, toning it down but still catching your eye.

If you now me, you know I can't resist a shawl collar. So this was a no-brainer -- plus the toned pattern and sheen make this a perfect black tie jacket. Although even here, where it's paired more casually, it totally works for a less formal night out.

Another shawl collar -- this one all black, and styled with black pants (again with a slightly wider ankle opening) and a black knit. I appreciated the simplicity of these pieces all together, and how they conveyed such confidence... helped of course when worn by Clement Chabernaud.

I definitely steered more towards the tailored looks in Reid's collection -- but get over to GQ to see the full lineup and his breadth of Southern goodness.

Ian Velardi Fall 2013: NYFW Review

Braving the onset of Winter Storm Nemo, last night I made my way to Lincoln Center for the Fall 2013 collection by Ian Velardi. Recently named as the menswear winner for Ecco Domani's Fashion Foundation Award, and a nominee for GQ's Best New Menswear Designer of the Year, Velardi is establishing himself as a strong player in the men's space.

For Fall he continued this streak with a mix of American influenced tailored comfort -- beautiful jackets shown with sweatpants, "USA" emblazoned sweatshirts and hats, and outerwear equally suitable for Manhattan or Maine.

What I loved most about this collection was Velardi's continuation of belted jackets -- in Fall '12 it was the quilted robe, and now it is the smoking jacket. Here is my favorite look, the cord smoking jacket (with satin lapel, naturally) worn with a chambray military shirt, flannel pants and an ivory beanie. Talk about confident sophistication.

The smoking jacket was also done in a tartan plaid, with the navy lapel. I'm always a sucker for a good tartan, so it would be a tough call on which of these I'd take home (is there room for both?). Worn with grey panel sweatpants, a cashmere scarf (luxury + comfort), and a USA ballcap.

Part of the lineup -- gives you a sense of the very cool mixing of dressing up, dressing down, and throwing it all together that Velardi put forth.

I am always fascinated by casting and how models are used for different designers. Velardi had Brazilian model Rodrigo Calazans in a rugged look... 

More to come from Ian Velardi and definitely one to watch. 

NYFW Review: Todd Snyder Fall 2013

Since launching his eponymous line, I've been a huge fan of Todd Snyder. Given how many people tell me they've bought his collection because they've heard me talk about it, I'm glad others are becoming TS converts!

Showing his Fall '13 collection yesterday at Lincoln Center, Snyder continued to impress -- venturing into a little more edge than seasons past while still delivering on the outerwear, suiting, and classic tailoring we've come to love.

I think my overall favorite piece, it literally made me pause, was this double breasted coat with (huge) shearling collar. Just amazing, and I love the shine and deep color combined with the contrast of the (warm) shearling.

Another standout was that Snyder moved past leather jackets and into... leather pants. Seen styled a few different ways (by the one and only Bruce Pask), this look stood out because of the windowpane cardigan and black shirt. Plus it was modeled by a favorite of mine, Clement Chabernaud.

This knit was fantastic, with the two pockets and neck closure. Given how often I have been layering this winter and going without a coat, I could definitely see wearing this next Fall just as it's shown here.

At first this striped sweater caught my eye, and then I noticed the other pieces -- these slouchy gray pants and the navy neckerchief. Rounds it out for a pulled together look that offers a lot of comfort. Was also really into the custom Vintage Shoe Company boots seen throughout...
 

I got a quick snap of part of the lineup -- where you can see the continuation of what Snyder rolled out for Fall... leather jacket, navy tuxedo (yes, please!), and a pony hair coat.
 

Todd Snyder continues down a very strong path -- bringing a well-rounded collection filled with tailored suiting, strong outerwear, and more casual pieces that give something for everyone. Can't wait to see this hit stores -- that double-breasted shearling coat will be mine! Check out the rest of the collection...

Raleigh Denim Fall 2013: Just One Look

Yesterday brought my first show for NYFW Fall 2013... I happily hit Raleigh Denim, a line that I've seen mature season after season. As they continue to produce great jeans (and have a rockin' store in Nolita to showcase them), the full collection has evolved.

Keeping a toehold in the Southern roots, there was definitely a nod to workwear. Raleigh also rolled out some great tailoring pieces that started to remind me of Billy Reid meets Steven Alan... but with their own locally produced point of view.

My favorite look was this pocketed vest -- a superb layering piece, and I loved the crop that kept it nice and clean. Styled with a long sleeved knit, denim, and a huge scarf to round out what you'll need for a perfect Fall day.

GQ has the rest of the men's looks, and they're definitely worth a peek. And if you're in NYC check out the Raleigh Denim store!

Fahlgren Tie: Things I Have

A couple of weeks ago I stopped by the GQ pop-up store done with Nordstrom... it was in the Treasure & Bond space and the team did a fantastic job of merchandising a wide selection of product, from some of my favorite designers. There was a lot of Todd Snyder, a great Michael Bastian double-breasted jacket, and a vintage watch case (which I wasn't expecting).

They also had stocked a number of Fahlgren ties, and Brett Fahlgren himself was in the shop that day, helping customers with products and dong some visual merchandising. So I thought it was a great chance to pick up one of the pieces from his line...

Of course my instinct was to grab something in navy, but I stopped myself and instead chose this red and gray striped tie. It still complements the abundance of navy I own, and is a nice staple to have.

Even though it is better suited to a little later in Fall (when the temp drops), I couldn't resist wearing it and so rocked it to the Michael Bastian show... I loved how the whole look came together + can't wait to give it another wear soon.

Check out Brett's site for more details on the rest of the line -- and you can buy one directly from Nordstrom here.

Michael Bastian Spring 2013: NYFW Review

I still remember the first Michael Bastian show I attended, in a cool warehouse building. He ran the show multiple times, so you could arrive at any time and see it. Well, times sure have changed!

Bastian's show is now one of the most anticipated on the NYFW men's circuit, and his move from Exit Art to Milk this season has amped it up even more. And as expected, Spring 2013 did not disappoint. Partially inspired by being poolside in Fire Island, there was a definite ease and flow, which was seamlessly integrated into the suiting and knitwear. 

The first thing I noticed in the collection was the use of cross-body kimono style tops. I liked how they felt more loose and casual, but fit right into the Bastian aesthetic.

 Double-breasted knitwear. That's all I needed to see and knew I'd want it.

Continuing with the double-breasted, this single button jacket really stood out. It continued the relaxed feel of the collection and I could imagine pulling on this beautiful piece with a pair of shorts and having lunch beach side.

There were also some really interesting knits in the mix for Spring -- while the giraffe spotted shoulders got a lot of attention, I really liked this one with the soft mix of color and the jagged lines.

The final look was this fantastic evening jacket with a slim black shawl collar. Worn by Noah Mills, with giraffe print Stubbs & Wooten slippers, it was not what I'd wear to dinner on Fire Island, but definitely got me in the mood for summer soirees.
 

Overall another very strong showing from Michael Bastian -- a collection that was consistent and very on-brand, while stretching and expanding so as to remain fresh and new. Can't wait to see it in stores come Spring and have that single button DB high on my want list! 

Check out the rest of the collection at GQ...