Orley Fall 2014: NYFW Review

Well this NYFW I am unfortunately missing the bulk of my favorite shows due to a last minute work trip to Seattle. But that doesn't stop me from poring over show reports, Instagram images, and back stage photos to see what I've missed in person!

Yesterday the team at Orley showed their first full rtw collection in what is a brilliant leap from what started as a (beautiful) offering of knit ties. I've been a fan since they launched said ties, but what they've accomplished for Fall '14 is incredible.

One of my favorite looks included this jacket -- I loved the off-white color for Fall and the attention to detail with the leather trim on the collar and around the sleeves. 

Another standout was this cream knit turtleneck with a complex stitch pattern as seen from the front... but with a really clever surprise in the back (click the link, it's definitely worth a look).

But I think my favorite look was where they centered on their sweet-spot and then blew it up. Knit sweater x knit pants with a really great grid pattern. As Bruce Pask just wrote about the trend in luxe sweat pants, the Orley version should not be ignored. 

I am super excited to see this hit stores but more importantly to see what comes next for the team at Orley! Full collection images at Fucking Young...

Rhett Bonnett Spring 2013: NYFW Review

Last season I had come across the first collection from designer Rhett Bonnett while at Project, and was interested by the styling (he also shot Cory Bond for the lookbook). So this season when I had the chance to stop by Bonnett's studio and see Spring, I was curious to check it out.

The collection was inspired by a photo of Paul Newman, looking young and relaxed in a polo shirt. Bonnett mentioned that while he will always have a red, white, and blue core to his line, here he introduced other colors -- including a seafoam green.

One of the first pieces is this cotton peacoat, with a striped cotton lining. The vintage looking white buttons etched with an anchor caught my eye (as always, a sucker for anything remotely nautical).

I also liked this navy jacket, with a cinched waist and detachable hood. The type of thing you take boating in Nantucket, or for a rainy Spring day in the city.

Sticking to the red/white/blue game, this striped shirt was simple yet stood out (and there is a matching tie... see below).

For Fall, Bonnett had sweatpants that he paired with sweaters and outerwear. With Spring he showed this washed striped tank with a matching pair of shorts. A muted take on his core color palette was a nice way of showing it differently and softening the look.

And now the neckwear... the striped tie to go with the shirt above; a vibrant blue and some seersucker rounded out a nice accessories story.

You can find out more about Rhett Bonnett and points of distribution on his website. I am interested to see what comes next!

Cashmere Sweawters from Drumhor: Fall Press Preview

Yesterday I went to the Fall Press Preview for Exposure and m5, repping a number of (mostly European) menswear brands. There were some great pieces from John Smedley, Boglioli, Save Khaki, and more. But what I really fell in love with was the cashmere from Drumohr.

Founded in Scotland in 1770 the brand did some really great knits for Fall, including it seems, a collaboration with Nick Wooster. Those were (unsurprisingly) some of my favorites.

Here, a basic nautical crew cable knit (apparently gleaned from the company's rich archives). I'm a sucker for navy, and the white stripe offset is nice and simple.

Taking the same stripe but changing up the color, I was totally into the green and pink. Fun and stands out without being too much.

Then from the main collection, this amazing yellow double-breasted sweater. Amazing -- again, in a color I can't stay away from. And as you know I can't stop wearing my Unis double-breasted sweater jacket, so this piece fits right in.

Be sure to keep an eye out for Drumohr come Fall -- in the meantime you can find some of their Spring collection at Yoox.

Michael Bastian Fall 2012: Just One Look

Michael Bastian has exploded, and at yesterday's Fall 2012 show it was everywhere you looked. From the amazingly elaborate set (there was snow), to the venue packed to capacity, to the sheer size and thoroughness of the collection.

There was incredible corduroy, some whimsical knits (the chess pawns were a favorite), and a variety of double-breasted pieces that had me drooling. Oh and the footwear -- I don't even know where to begin.

But until I can fully digest the whole thing, here's one look I have to have. High-buttoned DB jacket, embroidered corduroy pants, a fun bow, and the slippers that you're seeing everywhere, but which Bastian did in his own way.

GQ has the full collection, and I'll be back soon to share more of my favs and thoughts on what the Bastian man will be wearing come Fall.

Loden Dager Fall 2012: NYFW Review

For Spring 2012 the Loden Dager palette definitely popped... and it seems designer Paul Marlow is continuing that into Fall. Get ready for color!

Their Fall show, held at Good Units, opened with a bright red suit (below) that set the tone for the rest of the collection. As a fan of the tailoring in their suiting, I am looking forward to seeing this look up close.

There was also some great knitwear -- this piece worn by Clement Chabernaud had some fantastic back detailing that this photo doesn't do justice. The knits had a streak of whimsy, but also a thoughtful intricacy. When I met with Marlow a few weeks ago he alluded to some interesting knits for Fall... and he delivered.

This suit really stood out -- a gold thread in the fabric gave it some shine, and I loved the three button jacket.

Overall a consistent collection, shown in a packed house. I'm looking forward to getting my hands on some Loden come Fall! Check out the rest of the looks at GQ.

Fall 2012 from Sacai: Things I Love

I've been following Japanese label Sacai for a few seasons now -- although designer Chitose Abe launched her menswear line in 2009. But since discovering it, I have been consistently impressed with the attention to detail and the innovative knits, for which she is known.

WAD magazine recently did an exploration of a few growing Japanese brands (more on that soon!) and Sacai was one of them -- with a brief but insightful interview with Abe. Interesting to me was her response that her designs are indebted to her living in Tokyo but that she doesn't "necessarily draw a line between Tokyo and the rest of the world."

After reading the WAD piece I realized I hadn't yet seen images of the F/W '12 collection, and so quickly located them, and found it to be true to form.

Having noticed the use of white buttons and striped coats in S/S '12, it continued into Fall, with great result.

I really enjoyed these patterned pants that have a great sheen but are structured enough to wear as a normal trouser (and be paired here with some double monks).

Always a sucker for chunky knitwear, this piece stood out. Again the white buttons (love that contrast) and a play on a double-breasted design, with various knit patterns featured.

I highly suggest you keep an eye on Sacai, and that you check out the rest of the Fall images at Fucking Young.

Burberry Prorsum F/W 2012: Things I Love

The Burberry Prorsum Fall '12 show occurred a few days ago, but I can't get it out of my head! Christopher Bailey and team outdid themselves with an incredibly strong collection that uses the brand's strengths (coats and suiting) and complements it with some whimsy in the form of patterned knits and colorful accessories.

I love it all. So it took a lot of editing to select my favorite looks, but here they are...

Slightly obsessed with this sweater -- the horizontal stripes up top, and the differently colored solid below.

Another outstanding knit for those of us who like color and a little bit of fun... and I really like the loose neckline. This is top of my list come Fall (I'll leave the matching bag at home...)!

The quilting on the body of the jacket stood out and the color is so rich, it caught my eye, especially when styled with another loosely worn sweater underneath.

The slim tailoring on this jacket is perfect for guys like me! I'm totally in on this whole look -- most especially that incredible bag he is carrying. Definitely more of a Fall ensemble, but one that I can get behind.

Head over to Style.com for all of the looks and to read Tim Blanks' insightful review of the collection.

Menswear for Friends: AMI Launches at Barney's

It is always fun when you are one of the first to see a collection at retail... not only touch the fabric and see the detail, but also experience the merchandising and display. So, I was excited to be invited to do just that this week at Barney's, for French menswear label AMI.

I had previously written about AMI and their inaugural collection for Fall 2011, and it was great to see the pieces in person! They have a window right now at the NY flagship, as well as a significant in-store display.

In my conversation with designer Alexandre Mattiusi, he reiterated how the line is filling the void he and his friends felt in the existing menswear offerings. By literally calling the label 'friend' he makes it clear that "my friends are my inspiration" and that when designing he "makes sure I can wear it".

"I want to be the first customer", Mattiusi relays, and the easy yet well fitting pieces evoke just that. I particularly liked the sweaters, and was also very interested by the camel coat.

When asked what we can expect for Spring the designer shared that his outdoor presentation (complete of course with his friends) showed more color and softer, lighter cottons. Get to Barney's now (or online) to see the rest of AMI for Fall.

Jil Sander S/S 2011 at Pitti: Things I Want

This year at Pitti Uomo, Jil Sander was invited to do the special presentation (an honor Thom Browne had last year... I'm still salivating over it!).

And after seeing photos and video today of the show, let me just say that Raf Simons turned it out! What an amazing collection for Spring 2011! While the label's namesake has been rockin' and rollin' over at Uniqlo (with her J+ collab), I think Raf has been doing a great job at invigorating both the men's and women's lines (plus the new Navy line).

I love the solid bright colors, the layering of colors, the striped knits, and the floral motif. I am seriously pining for purple shirt and green pants below. And the light pink jacket. And the purple shorts. And...

I shared a few of my favs here, but please do check out the rest of the show: http://blog.wearethemarketblog.com/?p=6647. And a great review from Esquire: http://www.esquire.com/blogs/mens-fashion/jil-sander-pitti-061710.