Tim Coppens Fall 2013: NYFW Review

For Fall 2013, Tim Coppens was inspired by periods of his adolescence and particularly around skateboarding and graffiti. It meant showing a paint splatter graffiti print + voluminous sleeves like "the padding and volume of a youth's skateboarding gear". 

But all of that was rooted in silhouettes and design themes Coppens has slowly laid out each season... so back were the leather shoulders, the folded over collars, strong and robust hardware, and seams that create a paneled geometry. 

To the point of evolving from some already determined themes -- the zippers and rounded copper buttons on this shirt are being revisited from seasons past, creating a look one starts to identify strongly with the label. And these quilted pants caught my eye and were instantly added to my 'want' list. Seen a lot of quilting this season, but these pants (with the elastic cuffs) are too good.

This wool and leather jacket definitely stood out -- again a take on a piece Coppens delivered for Fall '12, but pushed out into the skater inspiration for this collection. I'm always taken with how he mixes materials, and uses seams and stitching to create texture and contrast.

My third favorite look was this navy cashmere and leather snap varsity jacket. Again, great use of materials and the leather shoulders are a Coppens trait seen season after season.

What I liked the most was the continuation he took from Spring '13 -- with a crossover on the color palette, where I felt I could definitely wear this sweatshirt I recently tried with the quilted pants for Fall. A more refined collection + excited to see where he goes next! All of the looks here... 

Raleigh Denim Fall 2013: Just One Look

Yesterday brought my first show for NYFW Fall 2013... I happily hit Raleigh Denim, a line that I've seen mature season after season. As they continue to produce great jeans (and have a rockin' store in Nolita to showcase them), the full collection has evolved.

Keeping a toehold in the Southern roots, there was definitely a nod to workwear. Raleigh also rolled out some great tailoring pieces that started to remind me of Billy Reid meets Steven Alan... but with their own locally produced point of view.

My favorite look was this pocketed vest -- a superb layering piece, and I loved the crop that kept it nice and clean. Styled with a long sleeved knit, denim, and a huge scarf to round out what you'll need for a perfect Fall day.

GQ has the rest of the men's looks, and they're definitely worth a peek. And if you're in NYC check out the Raleigh Denim store!

Just Two Looks: Kenzo 2013

Since taking over creative control for Kenzo, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have (IMHO) really turned it out. They've streamlined the look of the line and introduced a great modernity to it. Today they showed Fall '13 as special guests at Pitti Uomo and the streak continued -- I loved some of the rounded shoulder jackets, wild prints, and slim tailoring.

I couldn't choose just one favorite look from the season so the two that won are these amazing striped pants (reminding me of Dries Fall '12) and this shiny slim-fitted pleated suit, with matching cap. I would do the whole look!

Get over to the folks at Fucking Young for all of the looks and keep an eye out for more great things to come from Kenzo.

Belstaff RTW Fall 2012: Things I Love

Belstaff, the British company known for it's motorcycle jackets, just launched it's first RTW collection for Fall '12. Since being acquired by Labelux, and then with investments from Harry Slatkin and Tommy Hilfiger, the brand has been doing significant outreach to renew its image and expand its product offerings.

They're definitely keeping the moto heritage in the new collection, complete with leather pants, long dusters, as well as some great cropped jackets with shearling detail. I dig it!

Here are a few of my favorite looks -- really liked the cropped coat with the leather strips, I thought the quilted belted jacket was pretty great, and the super chunky knit paired with leather pants is a look I probably couldn't pull off by might try to.

Head over to FY to see the rest of the collection and stay tuned for more news coming from Belstaff.

Jacket from W-D: Things I Want

I'm still getting caught up from reviewing all of the great coverage the past two weeks, through Florence, Milan, and Paris shows. There was a standout post from We Are The Market on an Italian brand I hadn't heard of before... W-D (or Well Dressed Man).

Created by Salvatore Battello as "a capsule collection of men's jackets borrowed directly from British sartorial tradition" the line uses mostly British fabrics but with a "Made in Italy design" principles.

I was really taken with most of the pieces (there are only six for Fall 2012) -- mostly around the color palette and the patterns, which made the jackets distinctive from what else is available.

The first one below is my absolute favorite...

Now I need to find out where these beauties will be distributed come Fall! Until then check out the website for the full collection...