Tim Coppens Fall 2013: NYFW Review

For Fall 2013, Tim Coppens was inspired by periods of his adolescence and particularly around skateboarding and graffiti. It meant showing a paint splatter graffiti print + voluminous sleeves like "the padding and volume of a youth's skateboarding gear". 

But all of that was rooted in silhouettes and design themes Coppens has slowly laid out each season... so back were the leather shoulders, the folded over collars, strong and robust hardware, and seams that create a paneled geometry. 

To the point of evolving from some already determined themes -- the zippers and rounded copper buttons on this shirt are being revisited from seasons past, creating a look one starts to identify strongly with the label. And these quilted pants caught my eye and were instantly added to my 'want' list. Seen a lot of quilting this season, but these pants (with the elastic cuffs) are too good.

This wool and leather jacket definitely stood out -- again a take on a piece Coppens delivered for Fall '12, but pushed out into the skater inspiration for this collection. I'm always taken with how he mixes materials, and uses seams and stitching to create texture and contrast.

My third favorite look was this navy cashmere and leather snap varsity jacket. Again, great use of materials and the leather shoulders are a Coppens trait seen season after season.

What I liked the most was the continuation he took from Spring '13 -- with a crossover on the color palette, where I felt I could definitely wear this sweatshirt I recently tried with the quilted pants for Fall. A more refined collection + excited to see where he goes next! All of the looks here... 

Sweatshirt from Tim Coppens: Things I Want

As most of you know, I've become slightly obsessed with the designs of Tim Coppens since he launched his label a few seasons ago. His outerwear for Fall '12 was incredible with a use of stitching, mixed materials, and the highest quality hardware I've seen.

When he showed his Spring '13 collection I was equally wowed and had a few standout pieces -- bomber jackets, a continued infusion of technical fabrics, and stitched leather.

So yesterday when I made my bi-weekly trip to Barney's, I was thrilled to see some pieces from this Spring collection in the store. I picked out this navy and black sweatshirt with leather arm panel.... it was (unsurprisingly) incredible. 

Fairly lightweight despite the layering of materials, it fit me perfectly, and was extremely comfortable. The leather pocket on the sleeve, with Coppens now signature gold hardware, was a mix of fashion and function that made the piece stand out.

Now when Coppens showed it in his Spring presentation it was paired with quilted leather shorts, that I was salivating over (and still am). 

Barney's didn't get those in yet, but I will put both pieces on my wishlist... and here's to hoping! See all of Tim Coppen's Spring collection here.

Tim Coppens Spring 2013: NYFW Review

Last season I saw a lot of great menswear for Fall 2012, but there was one show in particular that stood out... Tim Coppens. I said as much in my profile with Fashion We Like, and waited anxiously to see it hit stores.

For Fall I loved Coppen's outwear -- the stitching detail, the panels, the mixed material. So I was definitely excited to see what he delivered for Spring 2013, the third collection under his eponymous label.

Inspired by post-World War II pilots, the collection was titled "Gentlemen of the Sky". Coppens evoked color as a major story: "dust blue, rust, ivy green, sepia, sand, midnight, and ivory." It was on the whole a darker palette than his first Spring collection, but one that had more continuity to Fall and felt like a step forward as a result.

Components I was drawn to last season were here again: bomber jackets, a strong use of stitching to separate out elements of a piece, well crafted hardware, and the use of paneling to give a technical bent (no surprise given Coppen's background at RLX).

A standout was this bonded leather bomber jacket with the use of bright gold hardware.

Bags were done in collaboration with Masterpiece Japan and the use of quilted panels tied it back to the jackets also being shown. 

While a number of pieces stood out, the shorts below were a favorite... jet black, quilted, and with leather pockets. A subtle tone-on-tone juxtaposition that Coppens creates without seeming overdone.

I am really excited by the execution and the progression in Coppens work + can't wait to see it in stores... Get over here for more pics.

Image Source: Fucking Young