Navy Tuxedo from Todd Snyder: Things I Love (And Wore)

With the CFDA Awards approaching a few weeks ago I was a little worried about what I was going to wear. Luckily the good folks at Todd Snyder came to the rescue, hinting they had a pretty cool tuxedo available. Was that an understatement!

It's funny because during his Fall 2013 presentation I noted the navy tux and how cool it was. Great peak black lapel, and a dark rich navy to contrast with it.

So I was blown away at being able to wear the tux yesterday to the CFDA Awards. Without any alterations it fit perfectly -- hit on the shoulders, tucked in the back, and showing just enough cuff. All the signs of impeccable craftsmanship (and someone who's been doing this for a while).

Was asked quite a lot who I was wearing... but it's from Fall '13 so you'll have to wait just a little bit longer to pick one up for yourself!

In the meantime, head over to the Todd Snyder site to see what you can grab right now.

Japanese Leather Wallet from Damasquina: Things I Want

One of my favorite California men's stores, Unionmade, has launched a small collection with Japanese leather goods brand Damasquina. Using vintage leather and brass hardware, the patina and craftmanship on these pieces is incredible. Make it in navy and add a nautically inspired anchor strap, and you have me sold. 

The large accordion wallet is super functional with space for cash, receipts, and the assorted oddities that accumulate...

But the kicker is the removable coin pouch, an awesome addition that lets you store cards or change within the wallet.

Check out the rest of the collection at Unionmade and head to Acquire for more coverage.

Maine Guide Strap Boot from Yuketen: Things I Want

I've been talking for a while about needing some boots (I mean, it's about to be my first NYC winter!). Been looking at the Julius boot from Peter Nappi, and then my friend Jeff suggested the Alden Indy... both amazing options.

Today though I came across the Maine Guide Strap Boot from Yuketen. I love the color, the height, the construction, the stitching... but really, I was sold with the strap (it's always the details, eh?).

From a Japanese designer who has the boots hand-sewn in Canada by indigenous craftsmen. Local artisan manufacturing meets Japan? What else do you need.

Available from those purveyors of all that is cool... Opening Ceremony.

A Series on Leather Craftsmen: Lotuff & Clegg

I was recently fortunate enough to be sitting with Joe Lotuff, of the leather goods company Lotuff & Clegg, for what was an all too brief 45 minutes (the brevity was my fault).

In that time though I learned so much about the New England brand, that Joe's passion for the craftsmanship and product definitely rubbed off. We discussed the way in which the cow hide is inspected for quality, how Lotuff & Clegg looks to use large swatches of leather versus stitching together two smaller ones, and how the rounded edge finishing is done by hand (no small feat) by a leather artisan. I also learned about how the leather is treated, without the use of chromium, to create the right texture and patina. While this takes additional time, it is something that Joe felt was part of the brand's integrity.

The design of each piece, and how that design may evolve, was another fascinating point of discussion. Lotuff & Clegg focuses on the functionality of each product, and design oriented additions should enhance that function. This was evidenced in the extra long zipper on a duffle bag, which allows for the bag to be fully opened. Joe also shared that through customer feedback they are able to make adjustments to a design, improving both its function and appeal.

The Leather Lock Briefcase

While the conversation focused on the brand in general, there was also this beautiful brand new leather briefcase in front of me, which required a lot of inspection! It was the Leather Lock Briefcase, in black, and I have to say I fell in love. It was so evident that all of the elements Joe had discussed: craftsmanship, detailing, design were all there.

The handle, designed to fit your hand just right

Close up of the hardware and the pebbling of the leather

Inside, with pockets, pen holders, and a zipped pouch

The briefcase, in all its glory

Now while I saw (and covet) the briefcase, Lotuff & Clegg had a wide offering... and from what it sounds like, their popularity is causing a bit of a wait list! So get over to their site, and check out the totes, portfolios, and other pieces you will definitely love (and own for a lifetime).

A Series on Leather Craftsmen: Interview with Phillip Nappi

Following my interview with San Francisco based leather craftsman Gad Tal, I recently had the opportunity to speak with Nashville based leather goods brand Peter Nappi. I'll admit I have been salivating over their Julius boot for a while, so the chance to speak to the man behind the brand, was definitely a pleasure.

Launched by Phillip Nappi, the grandson of Peter, the story behind the brand and its Italian heritage is one that will have everyone believing in fate (read below). The story behind their Nashville studio, and the incredible level of quality and detail behind their work, is one that will have you believing in the resurgence of craftsmen and how you can purchase goods that will last a lifetime (continue reading below!).

Based in a rebuilt studio space that had been Nashville's Neuhoff Meatpacking Plant, the Peter Nappi team not only produces handcrafted beautiful products, but has engaged with local musicians, artists, and chefs to connect with the community and those who share a similar passion for artisanry and craftmanship.

The Tote

Julius Boot, a personal favorite

5 Questions with Phillip Nappi:

MR: What inspired you to "relaunch" the Peter Nappi brand?
PN: It all boils down to a passion for boots I had shared unknowingly with my grandfather, the founder of the original Peter Nappi. I've always dreamed of having a shoe store with old, great leather couches, a cappuccino machine and incredible music playing in the background. I was inspired to turn my dream into a mission when my favorite pair of work boots finally wore out beyond repair. I had worn them everyday for years to the point that they were molded to fit my foot as if they were made for me. It was like losing a great love and I couldn't find anything to replace them that could offer its perfected fit from the beginning. So I started sketching out some ideas, ripping out pictures, and piecing together all of my favorite aspects into one model. It became an obsession. But if we were really going to do this we had to be all-in. So my wife and I quit our jobs, boarded our dogs and moved to Italy to make the perfect boot. Everyone thought we were nuts.
It wasn’t until about six months into this venture that our fate was sealed. While in Italy, I found out my grandfather, Peter Nappi, whom I had never met, was a shoemaker from Vietri, Italy. It was as if all of this was predestined, uncovered piece by piece to seem like it was my own idea, when really it was a part of who I was all along. This is my heritage, I am just happy to be able to carry it on.

MR: What is the basis for your designs?
PN: Quality takes precedent. We spend equal time choosing the leather as we do designing and crafting our boots. Only the finest, most supple leathers will do. Then we focus on simple, time-honored designs that last. We believe your footwear should be a staple so we design ours to be both timeless and have the quality to last a lifetime.

MR: Is there a specific training or apprenticeship program for your artisans?
PN: We work with an incredible group of people in Italy. The man that helps bring our designs to fruition actually teaches the art of shoemaking to students in town (Monsumanno Terme, outside Firenze). He is so passionate about sharing the talents and skills of past generations and passing them on to the next reign. The family that owns the factory where our shoes are made has worked there since the 60s. The owner, now 78, and his wife still come in everyday. He's actually been making shoes for one of the most famous Italian fashion houses since he was only eleven years old. He's about to hand over operations to his daughter who's probably been there since birth. The head foreman, lovingly called "iL Mastreo" (the Master) has worked there 32 years - and he's only 50 years old. Shoemaking is in their blood— that more than anything trumps their training. They are truly incredible people and we are lucky to work with them.

MR: Are there any new materials or techniques you're looking to use moving forward?
PN: I've been experimenting with finishing techniques. One of the best things about our shoes is that they only get better with age. The leather is such that through wear, they actually become more beautiful—like life is evolving them into an extension of the owner. Some of these finishing techniques will bring out hidden qualities that would take months or years to see. Although the journey is half the fun, these effects on the leather give the boots the appearance that they have a life and a story to tell coming straight out of the box.

MR: Where do you see Peter Nappi going from here?
PN: We have some great women's models coming soon. Heels, boots, open toe, laced shoes. All with our signature quality and timeless style. We've also been working on leather jackets. We want "Peter Nappi" to be a lifestyle. A way to live—not just in the products we sell but in the principles we believe in, which inspire the way we work and produce our goods.
There are just so many options! We are thrilled to be given such an incredible opportunity to revive and continue a great man's calling.

Wooden shoe boxes

Inside the studio

Be sure to check out all of the great content on the Phillip Nappi site, including video and more photos of their amazing studio!

A Series on Leather Craftsmen: Interview with Gad Tal

There is a definite resurgence in both the search for handcrafted and highly detailed goods, and the opportunity learn the trade itself. The use of locally sourced materials and locally produced products, combined with the immense skill of the craftsman has crossed multiple segments – from shoes, to neckwear, to watches and fine jewelry.

In what will be the first in a series of posts about leather craftsmen specifically, I spoke with San Francisco based artisan Gad Tal, who owns Tauro Leather. Having apprenticed with a Master Craftswoman who trained at Hermès, Tal currently focuses on made-to-order or small production pieces, doing all of the work himself. The result is not only of the highest quality, and personalized to the customer’s needs, but also holds the result of Tal’s years of experience and dedication to his craft.

Here he answers a few questions about how he got started, what his process is, and how long your custom piece may take to produce.

MR: Can you describe your background and what lead you to be interested in leather craft?

GT: I think my interest in leather craft can be attributed to growing up in a home where creativity and productivity were always encouraged. My mom was an art teacher and she gave me plenty of room to explore my creative interests, whether that involved painting murals on my bedroom walls or disassembling and reassembling household appliances. I love working with my hands and I enjoy the physical aspects as well the artistic aspects of building things. When the occasion arose to apprentice with a highly regarded leather artisan, I quickly jumped at the chance and took to the craft like a fish to water.

MR: What were some of the key learnings you received from your apprenticeship?

GT: I've been fortunate to have the opportunity to apprentice with (Hermes trained) Beatrice Amblard. During those five years, I acquired a knowledge of the coveted techniques used by the French fashion house and spent a great deal of time mastering the craft. In addition to learning the actual techniques, the greatest skills I acquired were an impeccable attention to detail and a reverence for the use of the finest materials.

MR: How would you describe your design aesthetic?

GT: I feel my design aesthetic is constantly evolving. I believe this is important in becoming a good designer. By studying the finest form of my craft, I am able to apply my technique in various manifestations and achieve beautiful results. I tend to create designs that appear simple, but upon further inspection reveal a well-thought out pattern. Many of my designs are constructed from a single piece of leather shaped and stitched to form a three dimensional object. I appreciate the challenge of creating these types of patterns. Another aspect of my designs that I enjoy is the marriage of craftsmanship, sophistication and elegance with an almost raw aesthetic. By raw, I mean to say that the origin and intrinsic beauty of the materials and craftsmanship are proudly displayed. I select leathers that I know will take on a natural patina. I hand-stitch nearly all of my work using a traditional saddle stitch. These are a few of the details that contribute to my over-all design aesthetic.

MR: Where do you source your materials from? How involved are you in processing the materials you use?

GT: In regards to leather, I purchase from local distributers who offer hides tanned in U.S. tanneries. Aside from supporting the local economy, this allows me the opportunity to hand select each individual skin for it's desired characteristics and appropriateness for it's intended use. I look for hides that will be complimentary to my designs and take on a rich patina with use. I feel the quality of the leather is parallel to to the design itself. In regards to hardware, I tend to take the minimalist route, favoring functionality over ornamentation. I often use pieces intended for equestrian use, as these are designed to last and often work well with my designs.

MR: On average, how long does a piece take to craft?

GT: A simple wallet, for example, might take a day to complete, where a bag could take as long as a week. There are many steps involved which many people may not be aware of. The leather is usually split and skived to achieve the desired thickness and reduce bulk. Edges are burnished using a hot iron and finished using a labor intensive process of repeated sanding and application of dyes and beeswax. These steps produce a smooth finish that is infused into the leather, rather than "painted" on. These are only a few of the techniques that differentiate this French method of leather working versus the typical western style. Although most people are not aware of the many steps involved, the outcome is apparent in the end product.

Variation of Bag No 1 in Saddlebrown, with iPad Sleeve

Bag No 1 in Equine

Wallet No 51 in Natural Ring Lizard

Wallet No 54 in Saddlebrown

When asked what his advice would be to emerging designers, Tal answered to “do what you love” and to “master your craft”.

To learn more about his work, and to inquire about ordering a piece for yourself contact: info@tauroleather.com

Julius Boot from Peter Nappi: Things I Want

There is a lot of discussion in menswear about local production and about craftmanship, and so when I was recently pointed in the direction of Peter Nappi leathergoods, I was definitely blown away.

Working in a studio in Nashville, the current iteration of the brand was launched by Phillip, the grandson of Peter Nappi, who had been a shoemaker himself.

When I first started looking at both the boots and bags on offer, it was truly breathtaking to even visually see the level of quality and craftmanship. And I was immediately drawn to the Julius boot.

The construction of the Julius was a big sell -- I liked the long toe, the subtle seam between the upper and the sole, and the height of the boot. This style comes in three colors, and my preference is for the Bitter Chocolate.

Until I get to Nashville myself to see the goods in person, I'll just keep drooling over the photos, and keeping these boots high on my Things I Want list. And until you get there too, I highly recommend checking out the full website: Peter Nappi.